Rome: Esquilino and San Giovanni
Head east of the Colosseum and you’ll encounter two different, yet charming neighborhoods. With its cobblestone streets and intricate cathedrals, San Giovanni has a distinctly old-world vibe. Nearby, Esquilino offers a cosmopolitan alternative with its large, diverse market and café-lined streets.
WHAT TO SEE
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
As the largest Roman church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore has historical, religious, and architectural significance. According to legend, Pope Liberius was inspired to build the basilica after seeing Mary in a dream.
Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42, Rome, 00100
Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano
When in Rome, don’t miss your opportunity to visit the official church of the Pope. Constructed in the 4th century and renovated multiple times, the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano is known for both its historical and aesthetic richness. While there, check out the large bronze doors, which originally lived in the ancient Roman Senate House. The basilica is free but there is a fee to enter the cloisters, so consider bringing multiple forms of payment, including cash.
Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano, 4, Rome, 00184
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WHAT TO DO
Museo Storico della Liberazione
Once a makeshift prison used during World War II, the Museo Storico della Liberazione now stands as a testament to those who resisted the German occupation. Beyond the photos and historic documents, you can still see the prisoners’ writings on the cell walls. Entry is free but donations are encouraged, so consider having cash handy.
Via Tasso, 145, Rome, 00185
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Nuovo Mercato Esquilino
If you’re inspired to do some cooking of your own, Nuovo Mercato Esquilino is a great place to pick up spices, seafood, choice cuts of meat, and vine-ripened produce. You’re also likely to hear a variety of languages, as many of the vendors originate from the Middle East, China, India, and beyond. Cash can make shopping easier, so consider bringing more than one type of payment.
Via Filippo Turati, 160, Rome, 00185
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WHERE TO SHOP
Local & Imported Styles
If you’re looking to do some shopping in this iconic city, consider visiting some of these retailers:
Casadei, Piazza di S. Lorenzo in Lucina, 40, Rome, 00186
MaxMara Roma Via Nazionale, Via Nazionale, 28-29-30-3, Rome, 00184
Mitsukoshi Roma, Via Nazionale, 259, Rome, 00185
WHERE TO EAT
Casual & Fine Dining
Whether you’re in the mood for a quick bite or fancier fare, consider paying a visit to some of these restaurants:
Merulana Café, Via Merulana, 138, Rome, 00185
Hostaria da Vincenzo, Via Castelfidardo, 6, Rome, 00185
Ristorante Il Secchio, Via Daniele Manin, 30/40, Rome, 00185
Antica Bohéme, Via Napoli, 4, Rome, 00184
Mamma Angela’s Trattoria, Via Palestro, 53, Rome, 00185
La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, Via della Madonna dei Monti, 9, Rome, 00184
EXPLORE OTHER ROME GUIDES
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