Switzerland Itineraries

The five must-visit restaurants in Lucerne

Mon, 29 Jan 2024 18:13:04 -0500

Discover a food scene that’s intrinsically linked to its landscape

Perched on the edge of a pristine lake that’s surrounded by lush farmland and sheltered by towering mountains, the city’s slew of young, creative chefs is making the most of its abundance of fresh produce. Traditionally this bounty is reflected in dishes such as Luzerner Chügelipastete, a vol-au-vent filled with veal and mushrooms, and Swiss cheeses used in raclette, but there’s a growing number of chefs using these local resources more creatively to produce innovative dishes that honor the region’s heritage, while pushing the dial towards a more creative future.

Embodying this culinary freedom and innovation means the food scene in Lucerne is evolving faster than any other place in Switzerland. With a strong emphasis on sustainable sourcing and a deep respect for the land, we’ve pinpointed five restaurants that should be on every foodie’s radar.

Hotel des Balances

Weinmarkt

Perched on the northern banks of the Reuss river, with views across the glittering water to the wooden Chapel Bridge, the terrace tables at the iconic Hotel Des Balances have been the hottest lunch reservation in town for decades. The setting is so good it would even make up for average food, but thankfully the cooking by chefs Andy Fluri and Niko Eichner is among the most accomplished in Lucerne. Fusing the French classics with a more contemporary Mediterranean flavor, the duo created a menu that begins with light salads and smoked seafood and moves onto grilled meats and delicate pasta dishes—all paired with a drink list that leans into Switzerland’s booming winemaking scene.

Old Swiss House

Löwenplatz 4

You can’t leave Lucerne without ordering a Wiener schnitzel, which is fried in an inordinate amount of butter right next to your table at the Old Swiss House. Diners have indulged in the ritual since 1931 and the rest of the menu hasn’t changed much since then—you can expect French-infused classics, such as homemade lobster soup with a dash of cognac, snails in herb butter, and racks of lamb with potato gratin and Provençal vegetables. It’s all hearty fare that’s fitting for the dimly lit, wood-paneled dining room in which it’s served. When it comes to choosing wine, the sommelier’s help is essential—the cellar here holds more than 30,000 bottles.

Wirtshaus Galliker

Schützenstrasse 1

The Galliker family has run this old-style Swiss tavern for more than 150 years and the recipes have been passed down more than four generations. Nothing about this place is contemporary—and that’s the appeal. As you step into the dining room with its floral curtains and crisp white tablecloths, you’ll be hit by a wave of loud chatter from the local crowd and shown to your seat by staff who have worked here for decades. From the menu, opt for the Chügelipastete (a large vol-au-vent stuffed with veal and mushrooms) and a glass of red from the Charles Bonvin estate—one of the oldest wineries in Switzerland.

Stiefels Hopfenkranz

Zürichstrasse 34

Run by husband-and-wife team, Moritz and Luigina Stiefel, every detail in this small 25-seat restaurant was lovingly considered. From the artful dishes that arrive from the semi-open kitchen to the art collection that lines the walls, it’s a personal project that became one of the most in-demand reservations in the city. The chefs are passionate about provenance, and every ingredient that arrives on their counters is hand-selected from artisanal suppliers within easy reach of Lucerne. It’s then transformed into a series of set menus, including a seven-course tasting option that’ll give you a delightfully memorable insight into the kitchen team’s talents.

The information provided herein is sponsored by Diners Club International®. It is intended for informational purposes and is not intended as a substitute for professional advice. Content on this website may contain information from third parties and/or links to third-party websites. Diners Club International bears no responsibility for the accuracy, legality or content of this information.

City break: Lucerne

Thu, 21 Dec 2023 18:23:47 -0500

The ‘city of lights’ makes for a sparkling Swiss getaway

With its cobalt-blue lake surrounded by mountains, sunny piazzas, and impeccably preserved medieval Old Town, European cities don’t get more picture-perfect than Lucerne—especially when the weather is good. Often referred to as the Swiss Riviera, the ‘city of lights’ and its famous lake are embedded within an impressive alpine panorama.

It’s not all about tradition, though Lucerne has also earned a reputation for its cutting-edge art art, architecture, food, and music scenes. As the gateway to central Switzerland, Lucerne is also the ideal starting point for many excursions up one of the region’s beautiful mountains, such as the Pilatus or Rigi, or an onward journey to Ticino on the Gotthard Panorama Express.

Take a stroll through the Old Town

Switzerland isn’t short on beautiful old towns, but many travelers agree that Lucerne’s central district is the finest example in the country. It’s all thanks to the impeccably preserved mix of medieval, Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassical merchant houses that line the narrow streets and boulevards, characterized by their steeply pitched roofs and fresco-painted facades. None are more impressive than Pfistern Guild House on Kapellplatz, a historic guild house featuring a sprawling fresco of a family tree.

Board a steamboat on Lake Lucerne

Encircled by majestic mountains, Lake Lucerne, or Vierwaldstättersee in German, enjoys incredible scenic variety. Trips aboard a traditional paddle-wheel steamer or elegant salon motor vessel count among the undisputed highlights of the region. Boats can also connect you to excursion destinations and mountain cableways, including the Rigi, Pilatus, Bürgenstock, and Klewenalp; and are great before a walking route, such as the Weg der Schweiz (Swiss Path). Several cycling and skating paths, as well as numerous bathing areas, are provided along the lakeshore.

Taste the local produce with a trip to the market

Withdraw plenty of Swiss Francs, grab a tote bag, and arrive hungry to experience the rich markets of seasonal produce that’s farmed, caught, and produced in the hills and waterways surrounding the city. Known locally as Wochenmarkt, artisans set up stalls along both banks of the Reuss river every Tuesday and Saturday from 7am to midday (be sure to cross the river using the magnificent wooden Chapel Bridge or ‘Kapellbrücke’Of course, Swiss cheese should be at the top of your shopping list with the nutty Gruyère, smooth Emmental, hole-filled Appenzeller, and parmesan-like Sbrinz being particularly special in these parts. Meat eaters will be drawn to the smell of St. Galler Bratwurst and Lucerne veal sausages being grilled and placed in buns; and for something sweet, pick up a slice of Bündner Nusstorte—a buttery short crust tart filled with caramelized walnuts.

Ascend Mount Pilatus

This perfect mountain adventure for the entire family ascends Mount Pilatus in Alpnachstad. It’s where the world’s steepest cog railway starts its impressive climb past forest, meadows, and cliffs—all while tackling a maximum gradient of 48%. With the aerial cableway Dragon Ride, travelers are now practically flying up to Pilatus—it takes a mere 3.5 minutes to reach Pilatus (6,983ft above sea level) from the intermediate station Fräkmüntegg. Thanks to spacious seating, a cockpit-like structure, and large windows, the cableway offers a magnificent view of Lucerne and the lake as you ascend.

Travel back in time at the Swiss Museum of Transport

Opened in 1959, Switzerland’s most popular museum features numerous fascinating exhibitions and simulations. With its collection of more than 3,000 objects, set across comprehensive exhibition areas of road transport, rail, sea navigation, and aviation, it presents one of the most extensive museums for mobility in Europe. Further attractions include the Swiss Chocolate Adventure, the Swiss Museum of Transport Film Theater—featuring the biggest screen in Switzerland—the Planetarium, and Media World.

Get active in Engelberg

Located 16 miles south of Lake Lucerne is Engelberg-Titlis, the largest winter and summer holiday destination in central Switzerland. It sits in a wide mountain valley at an altitude of around 3,350ft, with a charming village and famous Benedictine monastery at its center. Special kids’ activities, from a summer toboggan run and adventure playground to treasure hunts and barefoot trails, will keep little explorers entertained, while 311 miles of hiking routes offer everything from leisurely strolls for families to more strenuous routes for more intrepid adventurers.

The nine must-try restaurants in Zurich

Wed, 27 Sep 2023 16:30:04 -0400

Tradition meets the cutting-edge in a city awash with flavor

As one of the world’s largest financial centers, Zurich’s food scene used to evoke images of expensively dressed bankers clinching the latest deal while wining and dining business associates in extremely expensive – and often highly conservative – restaurants. Oh, how things have changed. Thanks to an influx of talented young chefs ready to make their mark, coupled with established stalwarts launching innovative new concepts, chocolate-box pretty Zurich has really improved its culinary game in recent years.

While there’s still plenty of excellent cheese fondue and Zürcher Geschnetzeltes going round, you’ll also find outstanding Japanese-Peruvian fusion dishes, Green Michelin-starred vegan menus, and fresh interpretations of well-known Swiss classics – all dished up with a healthy dose of sustainable responsibility, favoring regional, seasonal, and organic produce.

We’ve roamed the city to bring you our recommendations of the 9 essential restaurants to visit in Zurich right now.

Widder Restaurant
Widder Hotel, Widdergasse 6, 8001 Zurich

Accomplished chef Stefan Heilemann has the golden touch–this is the second time he’s cooked his way to two Michelin stars within the first year of being at the helm of a restaurant. The first time was at ECCO in 2016–the second in 2021, less than a year after taking over the reins at Widder, together with his entire ECCO team. The Gault & Millau Chef of the Year 2021 is known for his unique style of cooking: the combination of high-quality ingredients, excellent craftsmanship, a willingness to experiment, and his characteristic hint of ‘acidity’ opens new worlds of taste in the tradition steeped Widder Restaurant.

La Rôtisserie
Storchen Zürich Lifestyle Boutique Hotel, Weinplatz 2, 8001 Zurich

This elegant Michelin-starred restaurant at the exclusive Storchen Zürich hotel occupies an enviable perch on the river in central Zurich. Head chef Stefan Jäckel’s menu offers refined seasonal creations and innovatively interpreted classics, such as his take on geschnetzeltes–veal fillet ‘Züri Art’, served with mushroom cream, butter rösti, and (with or without) kidney beans. In summer, the outdoor terrace is the place to be, while avid foodies appreciate the Chef’s Table in the heart of the kitchen.

Baur’s
Baur au Lac, Talstrasse 1, 8001 Zurich

One of two restaurants at the grand Baur au Lac hotel, Baur’s is a brasserie with real pizazz. Its design appeal comes courtesy of Martin Brudnizki Design Studio (who redesigned Annabel’s)–fully adorned in amethyst pink, pastel green, and Murano glass chandeliers. The menu celebrates classics of European cuisine, such as sea bass with porcini mushrooms and Jerusalem artichoke, and venison stew on red cabbage with chestnuts and spaetzle. The wine list, curated by ASI Best Sommelier of the World 2019 Marc Almert, deserves a special mention.

LUX Restaurant & Bar
Claridenstrasse 5, 8002 Zurich

With a light-filled, cookies-and-cream-toned dining room that opens onto a large terrace with sweeping views over Lake Zurich and the distant Alps, this cosmopolitan restaurant brings an easygoing style to the Zurich Convention Center and the world-famous Tonhalle. Under the direction of head chef, Gerhard Rentz, the kitchen crew at LUX conjures up ‘climate-neutral cuisine’, with tried-and-tested classics as well as out-of-the-ordinary dishes, which could include dishes like pickled turnip with linseed sourdough chips, parsley root mash, and calamansi vinaigrette.

Kronenhalle Restaurant & Bar
Rämistrasse 4, 8001 Zurich

Dining at this legendary Zurich restaurant is a feast for the eyes as much as the palate. Hosting the likes of Cristóbal Balenciaga, Coco Chanel, and Yves Saint Laurent back in the day, Kronenhalle is also home to priceless pieces by Georges Braque, Marc Chagall, and Pierre Bonnard–collected by Gustav Zumsteg, whose mother, Hulda, opened the restaurant in 1924. The legacy carries on thanks to the family foundation–as does the culinary heritage, with hearty Swiss fare, such as sliced calf’s liver with onions and rösti, and beef goulash stroganoff with spaetzle served in three historical wood-paneled dining rooms.

Wirtschaft Degenried
Degenriedstrasse 135, 8032 Zurich

Embrace the charms of a bygone era by taking the Dolderbahn cog railway, followed by a short walk to reach this charming woodland inn outside of Zurich, which originally opened in 1888. By then you’ll have worked up an appetite for the restaurant’s rustic cuisine, served in the cozy dining room or on the secluded summer terrace. Classic, traditional dishes are the order of the day, from Swiss fondue to Züri Gschnätzlets–with vegan and vegetarian options clearly marked on the menu.

Bauernschänke
Rindermarkt 24, 8001 Zurich

Uncomplicated, high-quality fine dining in a casual atmosphere turned out to be a formula for success at this century-old spot in Zurich’s old town, which was taken over by innovative star chef Nenad Mlinarevic in 2018. The design is rustic and elegant, the contemporary food with a hint of Asian finesse is simultaneously top-level and down-to-earth. Taste your way through sharing dishes, such as pulled pork belly with pickled cucumber and lettuce or go for the five-course surprise menu. The 250-strong wine list, home-made kombuchas, and shrubs further the appeal.

SMITH and de LUMA
Grubenstrasse 27, 8045 Zurich

Located in a former carpenter’s workshop, this joint project by fine wine purveyors Smith & Smith and meat merchants LUMA brings together excellent steaks and interesting varietals in a cool setting with industrial touches. From Iberico to prime black Angus and Wagyu, the filets, entrecotes, and rib-eye steaks are all excellent. Vegans meanwhile can tuck into a range of plant-based dishes, including a ‘green mountain burger’. Naturally, given the restaurant’s owners, the wine recommendations are spot on.

Where to ski in Switzerland this winter

Wed, 27 Sep 2023 16:28:25 -0400

Dramatic mountain scenery and alluring traffic-free alpine villages make skiing in Switzerland hard to beat.

Switzerland is home to some of Europe’s top ski resorts. They’re all full of character, surrounded by incredible alpine scenery, and offer reliable snow cover from late November until the end of March. From the unparalleled winter glitz of St. Moritz’s to the challenging pistes of Zermatt at the foot of the iconic Matterhorn, we’ve pinpointed four resorts that showcase the Swiss mountains at their most extraordinary.

Andermatt: Advanced skiers’ paradise

Drive time from Zurich: 1h 30m

Until around a decade ago, this resort in the beautiful Urseren Valley enjoyed an existence of relative obscurity. Few of Europe’s skiers headed to its varied terrain, and locals kept quiet about its excellent backcountry. The secret is slowly getting out, but despite the steady rise in visitors, it has maintained its charm.

With steep bowls, challenging black-diamond runs, and kilometers of untouched backcountry, the resort is perfect for intermediate or advanced skiers and snowboarders who enjoy a challenge. It’s easy to find untouched powder, but a local guide will unlock many possibilities. At night, the pretty fairy-lit village offers traditional restaurants and cozy bars.

Pick of the pistes: Conserve energy for the long black run from the top of the Gurschen lift to the village. It’s a thrilling finish to the day, and you’ll certainly earn your dinner.

St. Moritz: Living the high life

Drive time from Zurich: 2h 30m

In 1864, St. Moritz became the birthplace of winter sports, and more than 150 years later, the upmarket resort in the Engadin valley remains one of Europe’s most popular mountain destinations. High altitudes and 88 pistes spread across three main areas guarantee snow-sure, world-class skiing, while the town’s proximity to the Italian border also ensures plenty of bluebird days throughout the season.

While it retains its reputation as the Alps’ glitziest resort, with high-end hotels lined up next to Michelin-starred restaurants and designer fashion boutiques, the lakeside town is also renowned for its unbridled sense of fun, both on and off the slopes – expect a packed calendar of winter music festivals and sporting events, including an annual polo tournament on the frozen lake.

Pick of the pistes: The Corviglia area is the easiest to access and is an intermediate playground with plenty of long cruising runs and a handful of testing blacks. Few routes are as fun as the Paradiso red run, which ends at a hut of the same name with incredible views and excellent hot chocolate.

Zermatt: A world-renowned classic

Drive time from Zurich: 3h 40m

You can expect snow cover from early December in Switzerland’s most famed resort, making it a fantastic option for trips before Christmas. It’s also a time when the beautiful, car-free town twinkles the brightest as the wonky wooden chalets and narrow streets get draped in lights and decorations. If you can’t visit during the festivities, fear not – there’s skiable terrain all year round thanks to Zermatt’s glacier and high-tech artificial snowmaking.

The town sits in the shadow of the mighty Matterhorn, which is visible from across every swathe of the resort’s varied terrain–all linked by one of the most state-of-the-art lift systems in Europe. Around two-thirds of the runs are red, which makes it ideal for intermediates looking for long, scenic runs with plenty of challenge, while experts will love the chance to get off-piste in the avalanche-controlled backcountry.

Pick of the pistes: On a clear morning, take the mid-mountain Gant-Hohtälli gondola to 3,286m and choose your red run–you’ll experience 11km of cruising descents with unbeatable views of the Matterhorn.

Saas-Fee: Gentle, sun-soaked slopes

Drive time from Zurich: 3h 50m

While many Swiss resorts cater to a crowd who’ve been skiing since they could walk, Saas-Fee has become a hotspot for less advanced skiers and snowboarders. The nursery slopes are a short walk from the main street and offer quiet, gentle slopes overseen by experienced ski schools. Once it’s time to progress to a blue run, there are many on the glacier, allowing beginners to experience high-altitude thrills.

When it’s time to take a break from learning the basics, you can sit back and let gravity work on an entire mountain dedicated to tobogganing. Away from the slopes, the town has avoided mass development, meaning it’s a pretty place to wander around, stopping for coffee on the outdoor terraces, or shopping in the independent boutiques.

Pick of the pistes: The Plattjen area is perfect for intermediates looking for long red runs. The lap from top-to-bottom of the Plattjen gondola combines a cruising red with a blue or black, depending on your confidence level.