Seoul Itineraries

Seoul's seasonal snacks

Wed, 12 Oct 2022 16:48:08 -0400

Look out for these local specialties in the South Korean capital during spring and early summer.

Spring is a glorious time in Seoul as the city thaws from its deep winter freeze and begins to come to life. But it's not just the weather that makes this a great time to visit, as the seasonal flavors of the city also come out to shine. City dwellers begin to flock to the parks with picnic baskets to enjoy the merriment of free-flowing soju liquor and seasonal specialties to complement the classic dishes that South Korea is known for.

Cherry blossom bites

There's no better way to celebrate the beginning of spring than delighting in Seoul's cherry blossom (sakura) festivities held between late March and the end of April. These enchanting pink flowers bursting into bloom all over the city are a feast for the eyes and taste buds as locals gather with picnics to revel in the occasion. At this time of year, you'll find everything from cherry blossom-flavored ice cream and pink frozen coffees to pink burgers, pink bagels, and pink popcorn. Keep an eye out, too, for seasonal sakura soju, made by infusing this local tipple with cherry blossom. But if you miss the cherry blossoms, don’t despair, as anytime during the warmer months is still a great time to pack a picnic and enjoy the city’s parks.

Insider tip: Yeouido Park, Children’s Grand Park, Seokchon Lake, and Namsan are all popular for taking in the cherry blossom displays, but for more a more relaxed experience away from the crowds, try Seoul Forest.

Hanjeongsik meals

A lavish way to sample Seoul’s seasonal spring and summer produce is to treat yourself to a traditional hanjeongsik (Korean banquet). This dining tradition dates from the Joseon Dynasty, and is a meal fit for royalty. The multi-dish spread involves an astounding amount of food, with plate after plate arriving at your table. The wonderful culinary experience shows off the full array of Korean cuisine that’s driven by the seasons, including springtime namul (foraged greens).

Strawberry shortcake season

Cherry blossoms aren’t the only colorful event in town come spring—it’s also the season to celebrate strawberries. You’ll find them everywhere, and not just the fresh variety, but limited-edition everything, including strawberry-flavored shakes, juices, and bingsu (shaved ice). Sweet tooths should also look out for the wonderfully kitsch strawberry dessert buffets at the high-end hotels across the city. Check out Baekmidang, not only for its winning blend of strawberries and soft-milk ice cream, but also for a whole range of local seasonal delights – from melon to young wormwood.

Fruits of the sea

Seoul's bounty of seasonal produce doesn't stop at fruit and vegetables, as spring also brings in a haul of seafood which is available only during these months. The most famous is king crab, a delicacy caught off the east coast of South Korea and available in Seoul's seafood restaurants. It's also jjukkumi season. This famous dish of mini octopus barbecued in a spicy sauce is best sampled along Seongnae-dong Jjukkumi Alley (Octopus Street). During springtime, there’s plenty of roe as well to add an additional burst of flavor.

Insider tip: Seoul's largest seafood market, Noryangjin Fish Market, offers a wonderful array of ocean delicacies, including king crab. Order from vendors and take your purchase to the attached restaurants to cook onsite.

Summertime samgye-tang

As summer rolls in, so does a whole new set of seasonal flavors, most famous of which is samgye-tang, a fragrant dish of a whole small chicken stuffed with rice in a fragrant broth of ginseng, jujube fruits, ginger, and herbs. And though a piping hot chicken soup may seem like the last thing you want on a balmy summer's day, locals swear by its cooling effect, which is in keeping with the traditional Korean principle of “yi yeol chi yeol” (fighting heat with heat). But if you want to go the other way, patbingsu is a classic icy summer dessert of sweet red beans and tteok (rice cakes) on shaved ice.

Insider tip: Tosokchon Samgyetang, conveniently located outside the Gyeongbokgung Palace, is one of Seoul's best spots to try this herbal chicken soup.

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A taste of Seoul

Tue, 08 Mar 2022 19:59:10 -0500

From galbi gardens to the Itaewon dining district, Seoul’s restaurant scene is full of local and global delights.

Dip into Seoul’s delicious dining scene and you’ll soon discover there’s a whole lot more to Korean cuisine than kimchi. Dining experiences range from snacking at street stalls on delicious morsels like hotteok (sugar-filled dough cakes, crispy and hot from the griddle), to slurping steaming bowls of spicy noodles, or enjoying hanjeongsik—a traditional set meal with an abundance of banchan side dishes. Seoul’s restaurants are also truly international and experimental, with fusion hits such as KoMex that pairs Mexican cuisine with Korean ingredients.

A taste of tradition

Korean cuisine draws on centuries of tradition and culture. Spices, seasoning, and fermentation are used to both preserve ingredients and provide a flavor kick to meat and vegetables in popular dishes, ranging from kimchi jjigae, a spicy stew made from fermented cabbage and pork slices, to bulgogi, thin strips of marinated beef that are barbecued and garnished with sesame seeds and spring onions.

One of the most renowned traditional meals is galbi—barbecued marinated beef or pork ribs. Specialist galbi restaurants, like Gangnam’s Samwon Garden (835 Eonju-ro, Apgujeong-dong), have their own closely guarded methods for preparing the meat prior to it being barbecued. This is done over a charcoal brazier at the diner’s table, with the succulent pieces of cooked meat wrapped in a lettuce leaf and eaten by hand. The elegant Samwom Garden, which includes a beautifully illuminated garden with a waterfall, serves top-quality beef and a full spread of complimentary side dishes.

Another icon of Seoul’s dining scene is Tosokchon (85-1 Chebu-dong, Jongno-gu), located a block west of Seoul’s main palace, Gyeongbokgung. Occupying a series of connected hanok (old wooden houses), this restaurant specializes in a superior version of samgyetang. A whole small chicken is stuffed with sticky rice, garlic, nuts, Korean dates, and ginseng, then boiled to perfection in a broth of ginseng, ginger, and other herbs. There’s usually a long line of people waiting to sample Tosokchon’s samgyetang, but it’s worth joining them, as the line moves fast enough.

Woolaeoak (62-29 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jugyo-dong, Jung-gu) is one of Seoul’s most timeless restaurants and has been famous for its naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles) since the late 1940s. The noodles are served in a tangy beef broth, topped with slivers of radish and pear, and the soup is then flavored with vinegar and mustard.

Insider tip: For authentic local eats, head to Seoul’s street stalls and pojangmacha tent bars. They keep late hours and are common in the Insa-dong and Myeong-dong areas.

Five must-try dishes

A traditional Korean meal almost always comes with rice, soup, and a variety of banchan. The more formal the meal, the more banchan will accompany it. The aim is to achieve a pleasing balance of color and taste, with common ingredients including various fermented products, like kimchi and doenjang bean paste.

Bibimbap A bowl of rice topped with vegetables, meat, and a fried egg, this savory dish is all stirred together with a dollop of red-pepper paste. A delicious variation is dolsot bibimbap, served in a heated stone pot that crisps up the outer layer of rice.

Gimbap Similar to a sushi roll, this dish consists of rice flavored with sesame oil, then wrapped along with strips of vegetables, fried egg, and meat or seafood, in sheets of dried seaweed.

Kalguksu Translating literally as ‘knife-cut noodles’, these handmade wheat noodles are usually served in a broth flavored with anchovies, shellfish, and seaweed.

Kimchi The most common type of this fermented pickle is cabbage seasoned with garlic and crushed red pepper. There are, however, more than 200 variations, using different vegetables and fermentation processes.

Tteokbokki This Korean street food staple is made of thick slices of boiled rice cake, fish cake, onions, garlic, salt, sugar, and assorted vegetables, stir-fried together in sweet red chili sauce.

A taste of the future

Since Michelin launched its first guide to Seoul’s restaurants in 2017, La Yeon has held onto its award of three coveted stars. Located on the 23rd floor of luxury hotel The Shilla Seoul (249 Dongho-ro, Jangchungdong 2(i)-ga, Jung-gu), this refined dining room’s panoramic views over central Namsan Park complement executive chef Kim Sung Il’s creative and highly regarded reinterpretations of traditional Korean recipes. A meal here is a multi-course banquet of Korea’s finest seasonal produce that both pays tribute to local culinary customs while adding a modern twist.

Southwest around Namsan Hill, the dining and bar district of Itaewon has a distinctly international flavor, due to its proximity to the Yongsan-Casey US Army base. Although the base is closing, Itaewon remains the best location in Seoul to enjoy everything from halal Malaysian and Middle Eastern food to all the delights of European kitchens. Vatos Urban Tacos (1 Itaewon-ro 15-gil, Yongsan-gu) is particularly popular, which began as a food-truck operation selling Mexican tacos with a Korean twist. They’re best known for soft corn tortillas filled with slices of galbi beef ribs, and kimchi carnitas fries, a mound of French fries covered with pulled pork, kimchi, cheese, and other toppings.

Insider tip: Within walking distance of the main Itaewon dining strip, Magpie Brewing Co (244-1 Noksapyeong-daero) is a major player on Seoul’s craft-beer scene, serving various brews, and tasty pizza.

Seeing Seoul through winter

Tue, 08 Mar 2022 22:16:03 -0500

Despite the mercury plummeting during winter, the South Korean capital wraps up and enjoys a range of warming activities.

A place where 21^st century innovation and K-pop mania meet 15^th century tradition and culture, Seoul offers an intriguing blend of both the old and the new, and its winter activities are no exception. While the city is known to sometimes get cold, don’t let that deter you—winter’s still a great time to visit Seoul. With a heated underground subway to transport you between museums, galleries, and teahouses, this is a city that knows how to bundle up and have a good time.

There’s no better way to start a chilly winter day in Seoul than with a warm morning brew. For a traditional Korean tea ceremony, head to the atmospheric lanes of Insa-dong and Bukchon Hanok Village, where you’ll find charming teahouses in hanok (old wooden houses). Embrace the full cultural experience and don some hanbok (Korean clothing) of your own before sampling an assortment of local teas and rice snacks.

For a more contemporary outing, try cool neighborhoods like Hongdae and Seongsu, where you’ll find indie boutiques and artsy cafés serving specialty coffees brewed by aficionado baristas. Gangnam is the place to see Seoul’s glitterati in action, but its themed cafés reveal a quirky side to the chic neighborhood.

Palaces and banquets

Heading indoors to visit Seoul’s many cultural attractions is a wonderful way to keep out of the cold. Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art is the pick for contemporary works, with a collection of renowned Korean and international artists. For traditional art spanning the Korean dynasties, don’t miss the colossal National Museum of Korea. Also, be on the lookout for Seoul’s majestic 15^th century palaces, including the World Heritage Site Changdeokgung.

And then it’s time for that other great Korean tradition: food.

From fine dining at three-Michelin-starred restaurants to street food at pojangmacha tent bars, eating out is undoubtedly a highlight of any trip to Seoul. While the restaurants specializing in luxurious Korean banquets offer a traditional cultural experience, you can also find delicious local dishes by visiting food markets like Gwangjang. Another essential dining experience is the galbi houses offering DIY Korean BBQ, where diners cook their own marinated beef short ribs at a tabletop grill, either street-side or in a more upmarket setting like Gangnam’s Samwon Garden restaurant.

Nights in Seoul

Even during the colder months, Seoul really heats up after dark, and dining out is generally accompanied by drinking. Popular local options include soju, the vodka-like distilled rice liquor, and the milkier makgeolli rice wine, but craft beer is also big here. To go with the popular local brands, like Hite and Cass, is a group of renowned microbreweries. Magpie Brewing Co is one of Seoul’s original craft beer bars, and one of many delights found around the entertainment district of Itaewon.

And when it comes to entertainment, you won’t get far in this city without hearing K-pop. A global cultural phenomenon that goes way deeper than Psy’s Gangnam Style, its popularity shows no signs of slowing down—and Seoul is at the epicenter of it all. Beyond the concerts, you can also experience K-pop hologram musicals, interactive museums, Gangnam’s ‘Hallyuwood Walk of Fame’, and even record your own track. It’s musical proof that Seoul is a destination so hot that not even its harsh winters can cool it down.

Top winter activities

Experience winter in classic Seoul style with these traditional activities and festive events.

Soaking at a jjimjilbang

Come winter, there are few better places to be in Seoul than soaking in a hot tub at a jjimjilbang (traditional Korean bathhouse). Dragon Hill Spa & Resort is one of the biggest and most foreigner-friendly, and features a huge complex of scented spas, saunas, and relaxation therapies.

Ice skating

Strap on some skates and hit the outdoor ice rinks that pop up around Seoul in winter. At the Grand Hyatt Seoul, the swimming pool is converted into a winter wonderland, with its outdoor ice rink decorated with bright lights. Year-round, head indoors to Lotte World Ice Rink, located inside Seoul’s tallest building.

Hitting the ski fields

Winter sports are another reason to visit Seoul in the colder months, and there are plenty of ski resorts that are within day-trip distance. The closest to Seoul is Bears Town Ski Resort, with slopes catering to both beginners and advanced skiers. There’s also a free shuttle bus, along with ski and snowboard rentals.

Experiencing Christmas festivals

Seoul loves any excuse to put on a dazzling light show, especially around Christmas time. Don’t miss Lotte World’s Christmas Miracle, where you’ll see the world’s largest indoor theme park decorated in full festive glory. Everland theme park also impresses with its Christmas Fantasy Festival, featuring the 1,640ft-long Christmas Avenue walkway illuminated with 120,000 LED lights.

Seoul: been there, done that

Tue, 08 Mar 2022 22:20:32 -0500

South Korea’s dynamic capital blends the traditional with the cutting edge.

Seoul offers sacred temples and dazzling palaces against a backdrop of forested mountains linked by an ancient fortress wall. This city is home to bustling traditional markets, uber-cool department stores, and creative approaches to everything from parks and public spaces to technology and food.

Here you’ll find the key spots and experiences that sum up the South Korean capital.

ANCIENT AND MODERN

Explore the Royal District

For 500 years, the Joseon dynasty ruled Korea from Seoul, living in palaces with ceremonial gates, throne rooms, pavilions, and ornamental gardens. A walking tour between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung is an essential primer in Korean history and culture. The two palaces sandwich Bukchon Hanok Village, an atmospheric quarter of hilly, narrow lanes lined with hanok, the traditional single-story wooden homes with tiled roofs. There are around 900 hanok in the village, some still residential homes, while others contain guest houses, shops, restaurants, bars, or elegant tea houses.

Insider tip: Drop by the Bukchon Traditional Culture Centre, which is housed in a hanok and has a free exhibition on this style of architecture.

Experience the future at Dongdaemun

An area that captures the stark contrasts of Seoul’s architectural environment, Dongdaemun is named after the majestic Great East Gate, the wall that surrounded Seoul during the Joseon Dynasty. Nearby and looking like a giant spaceship, is Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park (DDP). Designed by the late Zaha Hadid, this remarkable complex has fluid concrete surfaces coated with aluminum panels and illuminated at night by pulsing LEDs. Sections of the city’s ancient fortress walls are incorporated into the DDP’s grounds, while the inside contains design exhibitions, shops, and restaurants.

Insider tip: Head to the outdoor terrace on the 8^th floor of the neighboring Doota shopping mall for knockout elevated views of the DDP.

URBAN BEAUTIFICATION

Dip your feet into a revived waterway

For nearly 45 years, the Cheonggyecheon stream was buried beneath concrete and a raised expressway in central Seoul. Daylighting the stream in 2005 was enormously expensive, but worth it for the beautiful linear park that now borders the sunken channel. In this natural haven, the people of Seoul unwind and cool off on humid days as grey herons hunt for fish in the rippling waters. The stream’s course is also dotted with public artworks, including a 192-meter painted mural depicting a grand 18^th century royal procession.

Insider tip: The Cheonggyecheon is a great walking route between Dongdaemun and the arts and crafts shopping area of Insa-dong.

Meander along an old railway line

Opened in 2016, the four-mile Gyeongui Line Forest Park runs through the lively university neighborhoods of Hongdae and Sinchon in the west of Seoul. The park has different themed areas, with one section highlighting the printed word, as it’s in a part of town where publishing is the main industry.

Insider tip: Also explore the elevated park Seoull 7017, created from a discontinued expressway near Seoul railway station.

CULTURAL PURSUITS

Survey centuries of Korean art and history

Masterpieces of Korean creativity, including significant religious and cultural artifacts, are displayed in the mammoth National Museum of Korea. The museum building, a modernist interpretation of a traditional fortress, is surrounded by a park with a pond and waterfall. Dominating the central concourse, and visible from all the museum’s floors, is the 10 story Gyeongcheonsa Temple Pagoda, carved from marble in the 14^th century. At certain times of day, a light show animates this national treasure.

Insider tip: Hour-long English-language tours of the museum leave from the Great Hall lobby at 11am and 2pm.

Meditate in Seoul’s largest hall of worship

Jogyesa, the headquarters of Korea’s largest Buddhist order, may not be particularly big or ancient, but it’s beautifully decorated both inside and out with painted woodwork, and the main Worship Hall houses three giant gilded Buddha statues. For a taste of the Buddhist way, sign up for Jogyesa’s Temple Life program, which includes a tour of the complex, meditation practice, a tea ceremony, and lessons on making lotus lanterns and prayer beads.

Insider tip: Jogyesa is even more colorful and atmospheric during the spectacular Lotus Lantern Festival, which takes place in the week before Buddha’s birthday on the 8^th day of the 4^th lunar month, featuring an evening parade of illuminated floats through the heart of downtown Seoul.

CONSUMING PLEASURES

Enjoy Seoul-style shopping

Thanks to a catchy pop song, Gangnam has become world-famous. Generally referring to the area of Seoul south of the Han River, Gangnam is teeming with modern shopping districts, including Apgujeong-dong, home to the high-end department stores Hyundai and Galleria. Also, be sure to swing by the vast Starfield COEX Mall, where the Starfield Library forms a 43 ft bookish backdrop for selfies and you can catch up with the latest Korean movies at the 17-screen multiplex Megabox COEX.

Insider tip: Nearby, soaring skyward from the Lotte World mall, is the 1,820 ft Lotte World Tower. Enjoy a cocktail and bird’s-eye views from the observation floors near the peak of Korea’s tallest building.

Savor Korean street food

There’s no shortage of upmarket dining opportunities in Seoul, but for an authentic taste of rustic Korean cuisine, an evening trip to Gwangjang Market is highly recommended. Known for its wholesale stalls that specialize in second-hand clothes and fabrics, Gwangjang is most famous for its food vendors serving up superb renditions of street-food favorites, like tteokbokki (rice cakes stir-fried in a spicy sweet sauce) and bindaetteok (crispy pancakes, made from ground mung beans).

Insider tip: The central Insa-dong and Myeong-dong districts are great spots for street food, too. Look out for pojangmacha (tarpaulin tent bars), where you can also sip beers and soju, a vodka-like spirit, with locals.

Triumph of the new

Tue, 08 Mar 2022 22:21:44 -0500

Experience Seoul’s contemporary energy in these hotels with their sights fixed on the future.

From Gangnam Style to Squid Game, the capital of K-pop and K-drama is famous for its modern character. This can be seen in the buildings that have shot up since the Korean War, its dazzling shopping destinations south of the Han, and its cosmopolitan neighborhoods like Hongdae and Itaewon. Incredibly, this contemporary spirit mixes with more traditional aspects, including markets devoted to fish, flowers, or fabrics, and the five great palaces of the Joseon dynasty. To feel the racing pulse of Seoul’s youthful energy, check into these contemporary hotels for beautiful design, breathtaking views, and immersion in buzzing neighborhoods.

See across town from Signiel Seoul

This Seoul landmark overlooks the capital from floors 76 to 101 of the 1,820 ft Lotte World Tower, Korea’s tallest building and the world’s fifth highest. Above you, the Seoul Sky observation decks occupy floors 117 to 123, while far below are the fashionable shopping districts and departments stores of Gangnam. The 235 rooms and suites are luxurious urban retreats with traditional Korean furnishings and wall art, where you can enjoy a darye tea ceremony with views of the high-rises lining the Han River.

Insider tip: The facilities are as incredible as the hotel’s views, including two Michelin-starred restaurants, a Champagne bar, a heated indoor swimming pool, a sauna, and the water-themed Evian Spa.

300 Olympic-ro, Jamsil 6(yuk)-dong, Songpa-gu; lottehotel.com/seoul-signiel

Cultural connections at RYSE

RYSE bills itself as “a hotel for creative originals in the heart of Hongdae,” drawing on the neighborhood’s community of artists and musicians to create an independent hub offering room, board, and inspiration. Urban chic fills the Creator, Editor, and Director Suites, while the hotel pulls out the creative stops with its dining and entertainment options. These include a San Francisco-style bakery café, Korean fusion restaurant, and Brooklyn-inspired bar and nightclub, complemented by a program of exhibitions and performances, and a library of niche magazines, books, and vinyl.

Insider tip: Looking to shop for local and global street fashion? Occupying the first three floors of RYSE, Worksout stocks brands from Brixton to Vans in a 5,000sq ft space with a mezzanine and stair portals.

130 Yanghwa-ro, Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu; rysehotel.com

Contemporary style at the Mondrian Seoul Itaewon

It’s not only Gangnam that inspires entertainment hits. The cosmopolitan restaurant and bar district of Itaewon provides a setting for the K-drama series Itaewon Class. Taking its design cues from the vibrant area, the Mondrian hotel has a selection of playfully chic spaces like the Rumpus Room, where bookshelves and DJ sets create a relaxing environment for food and drinks, and Asia’s first Cleo restaurant, which offers a mix of Mediterranean cuisine and Hollywood-style glamour. The list goes on, while the rooms and suites conceived by Singaporean interior designers Asylum are equally cool and contemporary.

Insider tip: Head north to main drag Itaewon-ro for a cluster of places that accept Diners Club, including Route 66 American Bar, harking back to the area’s old US Army base that established Itaewon’s international flavor.

23 Jangmun-ro, Yongsan-gu; sbe.com/hotels/mondrian/seoul

Bold design at the Hotel The Designers Seoul Station

Young South Korean designers were invited to apply their skills to these rooms and suites near the Namsan Tower with some surprising results, including a wood-paneled suite and a silver-tiled bathroom fit for a spaceship. Witness the black-and-white Suite A & B, with its wavy wall motifs and rings-of-Saturn lights, conceived as a reflective space where “we can take out memories that have disappeared.”

Insider tip: Facilities include a restaurant, the SU Sauna, and the Dessert39 bakery café.

305 Hangang-daero, Namyeong-dong, Yongsan-gu; hotelthedesigners.net

Feel Seoul’s spirit at the L7 Hongdae

Another hotel inspired by the cool Hongdae area around Hongik University, this Lotte Group property allows you to live like an urban artist in its Studio Suite, complete with a desk for sketching or journaling and a view to the city. You’ll feel lighter than air in Floating restaurant, with fragrant coffee aromas, sweeping Hongdae views through floor-to-ceiling windows, and New York bistro-style dishes from the open kitchen. On the rooftop is a relaxation zone featuring a backlit cocktail lounge and a cultural space for browsing through books and listening to records.

Insider tip: Another beautiful base for discovering Hongdae’s galleries, buskers, and flea markets, the Loasis Suite has a soft, peachy color scheme, and a private roof terrace for enjoying a cup of L7’s signature drip coffee.

141 Yanghwa-ro, Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu; lottehotel.com/hongdae-l7

Seoul: under the radar

Tue, 08 Mar 2022 22:22:45 -0500

Seoul’s diverse neighborhoods offer a range of experiences to suit every travel taste.

A bustling city of soaring skyscrapers, ancient temples, and more than nine million people, Seoul’s diverse neighborhoods offer unique travel experiences. Jump on the well-oiled subway system to bohemian Hongdae, where artists and students fill the cafés and bars, or take in the cosmopolitan dining and nightlife district of Itaewon. Central Myeong-dong and Insa-dong show a more traditional side of the city, with their pojangmacha tent bars and craft shops, while Gangnam needs no introduction for its world-famous malls and department stores south of the Han River.

Hongdae

Whether it reminds you of London’s Shoreditch, Brooklyn’s Williamsburg, or Tokyo’s Harajuku, the creative neighborhood around Hongik University is South Korea’s capital of youth culture, cutting-edge art, and underground music. The students and artists renting studios in this area push the creative envelope as readily as they stroll down Yanghwa-ro for a coffee. Whether you shop for cultural inspiration and K-fashion in the boutiques along Eoulmadang-ro and Hongik-ro, or seek out galleries and gigs, this is the place to feel Seoul’s creative pulse.

Where to go: Hit the shopping district of Eoulmadang-ro, also known as Hongik University Street or Hongdae Walking Street, to wander among buskers and bargain-hunting crowds. The bars and shops buzz on Friday evenings, and indie bands entertain locals on an outdoor stage. Despite Hongdae’s bohemian energy, its streets offer dedicated themes, including the nightclub-focused Club Street, and Hongdae Mural Street (Wausan-ro 22-gil). The latter is also known as Picasso’s Street for the graffiti murals decorating this alley alongside the university, and there’s even more creativity on display at the lively Hongdae Free Market (19-3 Wausan-ro 21-gil) held on Saturday afternoons between March and November.

Where to eat: Chef Shin Dong-woo wisely chose this area near the southern end of Eoulmadang-ro to offer a hearty experience of Japanese ramen at Oreno Ramen (14 Dongmak-ro 6-gil, Mapo-gu), which earned the restaurant a Michelin Bib Gourmand recommendation for its noodle broths.

Itaewon

The opening of the Yongsan-Casey US Army base in 2006 turned the area around Namsan Hill into an international zone to rival Bangkok’s Khao San Road. Even though the base is closing, the cosmopolitan spirit remains, and hungry crowds enjoy world cuisine in the restaurants lining main thoroughfare Itaewon-ro. The party scene is also a staple of Seoul’s nightlife circuit, with glowing signs announcing bars, clubs, K-pop-blaring hangouts, and more.

Where to eat: Venture off Itaewon-ro to the side streets in search of fresh discoveries. On Itaewon-ro 27ga-gil, at the rear of the Hamilton Hotel, open-fronted Korean barbecue restaurant Maple Tree House has grown into a small Asian chain for its prime cuts of beef and pork. Grill them at your table in galbi-style and wash down your meal with a Jeju, ARK craft beer, or some soju rice liquor.

Where to drink: For a relaxing start to an evening on the Itaewon strip, head to the rooftop at Blacklist, featuring a cocktail bar and restaurant that offers beef jerky, burgers, steaks, and more.

Gangnam

Psy’s global hit, Gangnam Style, turned this fashionable area of shopping streets and department stores into worldwide shorthand for Asian affluence. Wandering through Seoul’s answer to Beverly Hills is an essential experience, whether to people-watch the brash characters Psy satirizes in his K-pop anthem, or to fill a bag with South Korean fashion. Start an exploration of this area south of the Han River with a walk along Dosan-daero, right next to the river and Gangnam-daero.

Where to eat: Located near the intersection of Dosan-daero and Gangnam-daero, Pro Soy Crab (27-1 Jamwon-dong, Seocho-gu) serves top-quality female blue crabs, caught in Korea’s West Sea during spring and marinated for three days in the house soy sauce. If this crab delicacy, known as ganjang gejang, doesn’t appeal to you, the restaurant serves other seafood dishes, from octopus soup to braised cutlassfish. On the northeastern side of the intersection, cook it galbi-style at Korean barbecue restaurant Sinsa Sogopchang (62 Apgujeong-ro 2-gil, Sinsa-dong), where the grill-your-own meat and seafood platters are perfect for an on-the-go shopper’s lunch.

Where to shop: Galleria (343 Apgujeong-ro, Apgujeong-dong) is a major player in South Korea’s luxury department store market, featuring world-famous designers like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Tom Ford Beauty, and more. You can’t miss the armadillo-like building, designed by Ben van Berkel, the Dutch architect behind Stuttgart’s equally impressive Mercedes-Benz Museum. There’s a gourmet food hall to refuel at before continuing to the white orchid-like House of Dior (464 Apgujeong-ro, Cheongdam-dong) for the brand’s fashion and fragrances, and the Hyundai Department Store (165 Apgujeong-ro, Apgujeong-dong)—another Gangnam glamour spot to see and be seen at.

Myeong-dong

This sprawling inner-city neighborhood is well known for its pojangmacha tent bars, as is the smaller Insa-dong district on the other side of the riverside park of Cheonggyecheon. These local spots are ideal places to try soju, the vodka-like distilled rice liquor, and street foods like tteokbokki stir-fried rice cakes, crispy hotteok pancakes, and sushi-like kimbap rice-and-seaweed rolls. The Myeondong Cathedral (74 Myeongdong-gil, Jung-gu), Korea’s first Gothic building and Roman Catholic parish church, is a local landmark.

What to see: Dedicated to St. Mary, the Seongmo Dongsan garden behind the cathedral is a peaceful oasis in this busy area. In a 1920s courthouse near Seoul City Hall and Deoksugung palace, Seoul Museum of Art (SEMA; 61 Deoksugung-gil, Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu) has an art library and rotating exhibitions, including a permanent exhibit of Cheon Kyeong-ja’s vivid modernist paintings. Don’t miss out on a walk along Cheonggyecheon en route to Insa-dong, a craft center with wooden teahouses and stalls selling traditional masks and hand fans.

Where to eat: For an alternative to pojangmacha, Chờp Chờp (46 Supyo-ro, Euljiro-dong) is made of sturdier stuff than tarp but is nonetheless a casual spot to enjoy Vietnamese dishes. Bánh mì, a hearty sandwich filled with numerous shredded ingredients, makes a delicious lunch with a Saigon Special beer. Continuing the Asian culinary tour, DimDimSum (63 Sogong-ro) serves delicious versions of these bamboo-steamed Chinese dumplings in the Siumei Shinsegae department store.