Madrid Itineraries

Art in Madrid: The pick of the Prado

Tue, 27 Jun 2023 16:15:57 -0400

Whether you pop in for an hour to tick off some of the big-hitting masterpieces or dedicate half a day to exploring the 170 rooms, Museo del Prado is a must for every visitor.

Originally conceived as a house of science, the oldest section of the museum dates to 1785 and served as a military barracks until 1814, when King Fernando VII decided to use the building to store the enormous royal art collection. Since then, it’s expanded its footprint, with new wings added over the centuries, now encompassing more than 7,000 works of art dating from the 12th to the 19th century.

Of course, the most popular exhibits focus on Spanish artists, with masterpieces by Goya, Velázquez, and El Greco–serving as a window to view the country’s rich, diverse, and turbulent history. Elsewhere, the museum features a significant collection of Italian Renaissance art, including works by Titian, Raphael, and Botticelli, plus Flemish and Dutch masterpieces by Peter Paul Rubens, Pieter Bruegel the Elder, and Rembrandt van Rijn.

Every visitor leaves having favorites but try to tick off a selection of the world-famous paintings on display–it’s not every day you get to stand in front of such incredible and invaluable pieces by history’s most revered painters. To get you started, we’ve picked five must-see masterpieces:

Titian’s Venus and Adonis

Room 19

The vivid composition of Venus and Adonis is one of the earliest surviving versions of the mythological scene created by Titian and his assistants between 1520 and 1550. They painted more than 30 versions using a technique employed by the Venetians to experiment with brushwork, color, and composition.

Set at dawn, Venus tries to stop Adonis from going hunting–knowing that he will meet his tragic end–the oil on canvas captures her desperation as Adonis' pack of hounds drag him out of shot. As many as 23 other Titian paintings are on display in the museum, including masterpieces such as Danaë, The Worship of Venus, and Charles V with a Dog.

Hieronymus Bosch’s The Garden of Earthly Delights

Room 56

With 7,000 visitors passing in front of this magnificent triptych daily, the museum has recently improved the experience by creating new supports and adjusting the lighting to allow Bosch’s unique use of color to pop.

The Renaissance masterpiece, painted between 1490 and 1510, depicts a surreal and fantastical landscape, with the left panel showing the creation of the world and the Garden of Eden, the central panel portraying an elaborate scene of hedonistic excesses, and the right panel depicting the torments of hell. It won’t take long to become absorbed by its intricacy.

Goya’s La Maja Desnuda

Room 38

In 1792, the Spanish Inquisition summoned Goya to explain the presence of provocative images in his artwork, such as the reclining nude of La Maja Desnuda, seeking to bring a charge of moral depravity against the painter. While the Inquisition ultimately cleared Goya of any charges, many believe the experience led to the creation of his harrowing ‘Black Paintings’–a series of haunting and macabre murals that he painted directly onto the walls of his home in Madrid. Not discovered until after his death, they’re now housed in room 69–don’t miss them.

Raphael’s The Cardinal

Room 49

While art historians cannot determine the sitter’s identity, many regard Raphael's painting as one of the most remarkable examples of Renaissance portraiture ever created. Completed in 1510, this masterful piece depicts a cardinal wearing ceremonial robes, his right hand resting on a book, and his left hand holding a gold ring. Through the cardinal's serene expression, Raphael conveys a sense of nobility and importance emblematic of the High Renaissance style–and his stare will transfix you the moment you walk into the room.

Velázquez’s Las Meninas

Room 12

Spanish for "The ladies in waiting," the best-known piece by Spanish artist Diego Velázquez portrays a scene from the court of King Philip IV of Spain with the princess, Infanta Margarita, surrounded by her attendants. Notable for its deft use of light, shadow, and composition, the work became one of the most influential pieces from the Spanish Golden Age–and is now among the most studied works of art in history – not least because Velázquez mysteriously included himself in the painting. Whatever the reasons for his inclusion, the magnetic piece will draw you in with its enigmatic allure.

Planning your visit

The museum is perennially popular, so buying your tickets online and arriving close to 10 am can help you avoid long lines at security and have more chances of seeing the art without jostling for space.

The Prado is big and has five entrances. If you want to buy tickets on the day, you must head to the two entrances on Felipe IV Street in Plaza de Goya. The Puerta de Goya Baja entrance offers a range of concessions and discount tickets, though you can expect longer queues. Enter via Puerta de Velázquez, Puerta de los Jerónimos, or Puerta de Murillo to skip the queues after buying your tickets online. Once through security, grab a free map and spend a few minutes planning a route.

General admission tickets are priced at €15 for adults, with half-price concessions for those over 65 and free tickets for those under 18 and students. Free access hours for everyone are Monday to Saturday, from 6 pm to 8 pm, and Sundays and holidays, from 5 pm to 7 pm. For more information on bookings and guided tours, visit museodelprado.es/en/visit/opening-times-and-prices.

The information provided herein is sponsored by Diners Club International®. It is intended for informational purposes and is not intended as a substitute for professional advice. Content on this website may contain information from third parties and/or links to third-party websites. Diners Club International bears no responsibility for the accuracy, legality or content of this information.

The five most interesting neighborhoods in Madrid

Tue, 27 Jun 2023 16:18:25 -0400

The five most interesting neighborhoods in Madrid

One of the joys of exploring Madrid is that you don’t need to travel far to discover its extremely distinct districts. Whether you decide to walk between neighborhoods or jump on the Metro, you can find yourself among the boutiques and bars of Barrio de las Letras one moment and embracing the open-minded creativity of Chueca the next. To help you get your bearings, we’ve dropped the pin on five districts that deserve your attention.

Find freedom in fun-loving Chueca

Take a 15-minute walk north from Plaza Mayor to find yourself in this fun-loving neighborhood embraced by the LGBTQ+ community. Mark your arrival with rainbow flags fluttering from balconies, followed by coffee, churros, and people-watching in the buzzy Plaza de Chueca. x

From here, head in any direction to explore the network of pedestrianized streets lined with independent fashion boutiques and small bars, which become packed as the sun begins to set. If you like the district’s vibe by day, you’ll love it at night, when the shutters lift on club doorways, and the main square comes alive with revelers. It’s a tolerant, open-minded place to party–but remember, this is Spain, so arrive late and prepare to head home at sunrise.

Tap into counterculture cool in Malasaña

Stroll west from Chueca and enter the larger Malasaña district, known for its embrace of counterculture since becoming the birthplace of La Movida Madrileña–a democratic movement developed after the death of dictator Francisco Franco.

The streets have smartened up since those days–with there are glimmers of gentrification shining through–while maintaining a fiercely independent edge and as a hotbed for students, artists, designers, creatives, and thinkers who frequent the vintage clothes stores, record shops, traditional bookshops, and historic bars that dot the graffitied streets. It’s got a vibrant night scene and a wide range of affordable dining spots serving global flavors.

Discover the finer things in life in Salamanca

Until 1860, a defensive wall enclosed this northeastern district built by King Philip IV of Spain in 1625–urbanized by Don José de Salamanca y Mayol, who stamped his vision (and name) on the area. Known as The Golden Mile, it became one of the wealthiest areas in the capital while having all the trappings of an upmarket neighborhood, with flagship fashion stores rubbing shoulders with Michelin-starred restaurants and mansions hidden behind high walls.

Beyond the glamour, the fabulous Mercado de la Paz is one of the city’s longest-running markets packed with incredible local produce and buzzy little places to grab lunch.

Drink in culture and cocktails in Barrio de las Letras

Often referred to as Huertas after the main thoroughfare that cuts through its center, this central neighborhood has a special place in many Madrileños’ hearts. Known as the crucible of Spain’s Golden Age of literature, it is where writer Miguel de Cervantes penned Don Quixote, playwright Lope de Vega found inspiration for his oeuvre, and novelist Ernest Hemmingway reported on the civil war from its many tavernas.

Today, the car-free streets have attracted a talented pool of chefs, designers, and artisans who’ve set up small, independent businesses that show the future of Spain’s food, design, literary, and art scene are in safe hands. Don’t miss the open-air Mercado de las Ranas on the first and third Saturday of each month on Calle de las Huertas.

Take a tapas tour through La Latina

Arrive hungry and get ready to elbow your way to the bar in this food-forward district southwest of the city center. On weekends, the streets become packed with locals and tourists hopping from one tapas bar to the next, with most of the action taking place along Cava Alta and Cava Baja.

For something more relaxed, head to Plaza de la Paja on a weekday afternoon to enjoy a drink and bite to eat before dipping into the free-entry San Isidro Museum. Explore and chart Madrid’s rich history through interactive exhibitions, then check out the bustling Mercado de la Cebada. Following that, you could pack a picnic and lounge in the sun in the beautifully kept Jardines de las Vistillas.

Easy day trips from Madrid

Tue, 27 Jun 2023 16:18:42 -0400

The sensory pleasures of small-town Spain are well documented, from the smell of coffee and the taste of a traditional pastry, as you watch the main square wake up to the evening breeze on your face as you stroll the calles. With so much history and culture to discover in the towns and cities ringing Madrid, it’s well worth escaping the capital for an experience of everyday Spanish life. Regular trains and buses allow you to practice your Spanish phrasebook and day trip to the surrounding hills and plains.

Toledo

Dominated by a spired castle, this richly historical city spills towards the cliffs of the Río Tajo gorge. This dramatic setting dates to the Romans and Visigoths, where you can visit the Christian, Jewish, and Muslim places of worship, which give Toledo its nickname, City of Three Cultures. Keep a look out for work by 17th-century resident El Greco, who painted a famous landscape of this city above the plains roamed by Cervantes’ fictional Don Quixote.

Getting there: Hourly trains make for a convenient 75km journey south to Toledo from Madrid Atocha station, which takes about 35 minutes.

Ávila

Wandering the sturdy walls of Ávila’s medieval battlements, between towering gates and some 85 turreted watchtowers, will make romantic travelers feel like a Spanish Romeo or Juliet. Come at sunset for views across the hills of southern Castile and León of the illuminated 2.5km-long fortifications. A bastion of bygone Spain, the city remains a pilgrimage destination as the birthplace of 16th-century Carmelite mystic Saint Teresa of Jesus, with religious sites recalling her life and the Camino Teresiano leading west to her tomb in Alba de Tormes.

Getting there: Trains regularly leave Madrid’s central Príncipe Pío station for the 90-minute journey to Ávila.

Segovia

When escaping Madrid’s hustle and bustle, few places are prettier than this city hugging the soaring buttresses of the last Gothic cathedral built in Spain. Look out for glimpses of the surrounding hills and perhaps the snowy Sierra de Guadarrama as you explore the lanes of the Jewish Quarter or seek out a terrace restaurant off Plaza Mayor. The Segovia cathedral is far from the only impressive building in town, with the 167 arches of the 2,000-year-old Roman aqueduct and the Disneyesque Alcázar castle greeting arrivals.

Getting there: T Trains leave half-hourly and take roughly the same time between Madrid’s northern Chamartín-Clara Campoamor station and Segovia Guiomar, south of town.

San Lorenzo de El Escorial

On sticky summer days, follow generations of Spanish royals and day-tripping Madridians to the cool air of the Guadarrama foothills, where King Philip II commissioned this palatial 16th-century royal monastery. Enter beneath the statue of eponymous martyr Saint Lawrence to explore the sprawling complex and its artworks by the likes of El Greco. Highlights include Benvenuto Cellini’s marble statue of a crucified Christ in the basilica, the formal gardens, and Carlos IV’s neoclassical Casita del Príncipe.

Getting there: Local trains frequently depart from Madrid’s main stations for the one-hour journey northwest to San Lorenzo de El Escorial.

Royal Palace of Aranjuez

Another royal escape from the capital, this magnificent palace was the Spanish rulers’ own Palace of Versailles, modeled from the 300-room retreat. You’ll tour ornate spaces, including the king’s dressing room, festooned with mirrors and bas-reliefs, and a chamber clad in colorful 18th-century enameled porcelain panels. The fertile garden near the confluence of the Tagus and Jarama rivers, with its walkways, gazebos, and fountains, is equally enjoyable – as is the lively town beyond the gates.

Getting there: Trains frequently run 45 minutes south from Madrid Atocha to Aranjuez station, 2km from the palace.

Chinchón

Few town squares can compete with Chinchón’s Plaza Mayor, overlooked by wooden balconies worthy of a cowboy film, the circular window of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción church, and a jumble of whitewashed houses. We recommend riding south from Madrid to watch small-town life go by while enjoying a cerveza and traditional Castilian cuisine. The square hosts events throughout the year, including a February carnival and medieval market, followed by a Passion of Jesus re-enactment on Easter Sunday.

Getting there: You can reach Chinchón in about an hour by bus, leaving from Madrid’s Avenida del Mediterráneo, near Plaza del Conde de Casal.

Five unmissable markets in Madrid

Tue, 27 Jun 2023 16:27:47 -0400

When it comes to eating out in Madrid, there is an incredible number of excellent restaurants and tapas bars to choose from–but any Madrileño knows the most exciting cooking often takes place in the neighborhood mercados. These city-wide markets fuse traditional stalls–piled high with the freshest produce from across Spain–with compact kiosks serving some of the most delicious food in the capital. They’re integral to every itinerary, so we rounded up five must-visit markets to get you started.

Mercado de San Miguel

The last remaining cast-iron structured market in Madrid became one of the city’s most visited attractions after its rejuvenation at the beginning of the millennium. This adaption to modern times and tourist tastes transitioned it from a place for finding fresh produce to the location of more than 30 incredible dining spots. Now visitors are lured into pulling up stools to bars with oozing tortillas, perfectly grilled langoustines, and crisp glasses of cava. Plaza de San Miguel; mercadodesanmiguel.es

Insider tip: When you order a drink at any of the bars in the market, you’re free to walk around with it. So, grab a drink and decide which food experience you fancy.

Mercado de San Antón

Following the success of Mercado de San Miguel, the energetic Chueca district seemed a fitting place for another upmarket food hall, so Mercado de San Antón was born. In a similar blueprint to the Plaza Mayor original, it’s a fantastic place to sample traditional flavors from across Spain–think sophisticated pintxos from the Basque country and Segovian suckling pig washed down with excellent cider from Asturias. Calle de Augusto Figueroa; mercadosananton.com

Insider tip: Once you’ve grazed through the food floors, head up to the terrace to join locals for generously poured gin and tonics and views across the skyline.

Mercado de la Paz

Built in 1879, this is one of Madrid’s oldest markets and remains a big part of many residents’ weekly–and daily–shopping and social routines. At the heart of the upmarket Salamanca district, the art nouveau building retains its original charm, avoiding additional glamor. Strolling past the perfectly presented fruit, day-fresh seafood, and glistening charcuterie allows anyone who understands Spanish to overhear stallholders and locals gossip as they barter over prices. It’s a brilliant option to pick up provisions if you’re staying somewhere you can cook or enjoy one of the eat-in kiosks to let a professional do the job for you. Calle de Ayala; mercadodelapaz.com

Insider tip: Keep your eye out for mojama–slabs of salt-cured tuna loin, delightfully grated over pasta or thinly sliced and added to warm bread with olive oil and a chunk of ripe tomato. It’s not cheap, but the umami-rich flavor is worth the price.

Mercado de San Ildefonso

A decade before this three-story food emporium, many visited the Malasaña neighborhood to find great eats. It elevated its food scene to even greater heights with its 20 stalls, three bars, and rooftop patio where trendy locals sip cold beers and graze on plates of chorizo Ibérico, made-to-order tortillas, and a special steak tartare flavored with truffle. Calle de Fuencarral; mercadodelapaz.com

Insider tip: Take the Metro to Quevedo station and head south along Malasaña’s Fuencarral street to experience one of the liveliest places in Madrid. As you explore the many great bars and restaurants, make Mercado de San Ildefonso one of your pitstops.

Mercado de Maravillas

Travel 20 minutes north from Plaza Mayor on Metro Line 1 to Alvarado to find the largest municipal market in Europe. What it lacks in charm, it makes up for in scale, and dedicated foodies should arrive early to purchase the freshest produce–whether that’s prized jamón from the mountainous Extremadura region or saffron from sun-drenched La Mancha. Unlike many commercial markets, Mercado de Maravillas maintains its buzz all day, as locals flood in to order steaming bowls of callos a la madrileña and cold Mahou lagers at lunch and after work. Calle de Bravo Murillo

Insider tip: The market is only a few blocks west of the iconic Santiago Bernabéu stadium, home to star-studded Real Madrid Football Club. Watching one of the world’s greatest teams isn’t easy at the last minute, but it’s worth trying to secure tickets in advance to experience one of the most electric atmospheres in European soccer.