Lima Itineraries

When Lima Turns Purple: Insights into the Lima's Colorful Celebration

Wed, 02 Nov 2022 13:41:33 -0400

Everyone and everything turns purple in Lima each October for Latin America’s largest religious procession.

Purple, in much of the world, is associated with wealth, royalty, and privilege, but in Latin America the color usually symbolizes devotion, specifically of the fervently religious variety. Every October, the region’s biggest religious procession enlivens Lima, and for an entire month the city takes on the tint of purple—from the garb of the many processions’ protagonists to the souvenirs sold and the traditional food consumed. Trace the Señor de los Milagros (Lord of the Miracles) festivities back far enough though, and at their root is another color altogether: brown.

Lowly origins

The image of Cristo Moreno (Brown Christ) was purportedly painted on a wall in the 1650s by a former slave of Angolan descent, in what was then the deprived barrio of Pachacamilla on the site of what is now the city center’s Iglesia las Nazarenas church. Some devotees, likely slaves, were already using the place for worship before a 1655 earthquake leveled Lima, yet inexplicably left this humble wall with its painting of the crucified Christ intact.

The image continued outlasting any destruction thrown at it. On October 20^th, 1687, another quake razed Lima, including the chapel constructed at the site, but Cristo Moreno again emerged unscathed. By this point its reputation was widespread enough for a replica to be paraded through the streets in celebration of its miraculous ability to survive turmoil, an act repeated annually ever since. The image would need to survive a third seismic shock on October 28^th, 1746, for its veneration to become fully embraced by Lima’s Creole middle class.

Cristo Moreno then became increasingly known as the Señor de los Milagros. It would soon be Peru’s ultimate multiracial symbol, resonating with residents and immigrants alike. Accordingly, the late 18^th century saw a far grander shrine built to house the image, today incorporated into the Iglesia las Nazarenas altar.

High-flying festivities

From dawn on October 1^st, expect Lima to enter its purple phase with plenty of celebrating. Various smaller events lead up to the first major parade of the Cristo Moreno oil-painted replica early in the month, repeated on October 18^th, 19^th, and 28^th, then finally on November 1^st.

Processions begin from Monasterio de las Nazarenas across the block from the namesake church, where resident nuns of the Madres Nazarenas Carmelitas Descalzas order are charged with the replica’s safekeeping during festivities. The 200-odd nuns, distinguished by their habits of purple instead of the standard Carmelite brown, lead proceedings and wave incense. The burlier work, conveying the two-ton silver plinth on which the replica rests, is entrusted to purple-clad cargadores organized into rotating 36-strong teams, each member of which bears 110 pounds on their shoulders. Some 300 cantoradas also participate, singing traditional associated songs. Parades last 24 hours and attract two million onlookers, while purple bouquets brighten buildings and purple candles are lit in city churches.

The scale of organization required to orchestrate such a procession several times within a single month is simply spectacular. But it is not just the numbers making Señor de los Milagros so impressive, it’s also the fact that Lima's premier attractions are showcased. Key downtown sights such as Iglesia de la Merced, where Lima’s first Latin mass was held in 1534, and the beautiful Monasterio de San Francisco, are encompassed on processional routes. Delicious food such as mazamorra morada (purple corn pudding) makes a special appearance, and the fog that usually swathes the city between April and September has largely lifted by then, heralding the start of summer.

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The Finest Hotels in Lima, Peru

Wed, 02 Nov 2022 13:48:36 -0400

Desert destination, coastal city, and culinary capital, Lima is the modern metropolis with a storied past that has it all.

Above the wave-battered cliffs of Peru’s Pacific coastline, Lima's metropolis rises out of an otherwise barren landscape. The world’s second largest desert-set capital, the city is a blend of high-rise buildings, public parks, and colonial vestiges that spill into the Sechura Desert.

The cosmopolitan outpost was founded by a Spanish conquistador in 1535 and brims with a history dating back a millennium. As such, archaeological sites dot the city with the same frequency as high-rises, while museums of Incan artefacts sit alongside galleries of contemporary art. Not just the capital of Peru, Lima is the culinary capital of South America, and its gastronomy as rich as its history.

We’re taking a closer look at the city’s finest hotels, where you’ll experience Lima’s ancient legacy infused with the vibrance of a multifaceted culture centuries in the making.

Contemporary coastal hideout at Miraflores Park, A Belmond Hotel, Lima

Eleven stories of mirror-like glass reflect the adjacent ocean which creates a glittering spectacle for one of the city’s more upscale addresses—especially at sunset. A stay here places you among the city’s shopping hub, and a classic pisco sour at the rooftop The Observatory, or dinner among Tragaluz’ art-adorned walls will have you rubbing shoulders with Lima’s fashionable set.

You’re about as oceanside as you can get in the city and views over the Pacific provide the backdrop to the Presidential Suite’s terrace plunge pool. You’d be forgiven for forgetting your desert surroundings at this verdant locale, where greenery spills from every corner, culminating in a manicured garden complete with its own turtle pond.

Insider tip: While you’re staying in Miraflores, a visit to Larcomar is in order—the city’s iconic cliff-hugging outdoor mall. This popular retail destination is known as much for its upscale shops and eateries as its sweeping views over the Pacific.

belmond.com/hotels/south-america/peru/lima/belmond-miraflores-park

Golf and gold-leafed glamour at the Country Club Lima Hotel

Lima’s roots are inextricably tied with Spanish colonialism and it's this history that is the cornerstone of the Country Club Lima Hotel. Here, hand-painted Spanish tiles and 16th century artworks (on loan from the Museo Pedro de Osma) set a viceregal scene best enjoyed beneath the iconic stained-glass atrium of Los Vitrales with pisco sours in hand.

The preservation of the hotel's Hispanic colonial architecture has made the property a national cultural monument, but it’s the no-holds-barred approach to luxury which culminates in the larger-than-life Dom Perignon suite and posh San Isidro address that has cemented its status as the city's most coveted locale. It has been the retreat of choice for celebrities and dignitaries since its opening in 1927, with John Wayne and Ernest Hemingway among those who have wandered its marble-clad hallways.

Insider tip: The hotel sits adjacent to one of the desert city's largest swathes of green—the Lima Golf Club. A long-standing arrangement between club and course enables guests to enjoy a round or two on the members-only fairway.

countryclublimahotel.com

A stately mansion stay in the cultural capital at Casa Republica Barranco Boutique Hotel

The white facade of this adobe mansion helps it stand out amid the tree-lined boulevards of Lima's lively bohemian district, Barranco. The home-turned-boutique-hotel was once a wealthy family's beach hideout, and a visit to the rooftop lounge serves to remind you just how close you are to the Pacific with dazzling ocean views.

The Prix Versailles Award-winning interior transports you to Lima's prosperous post-colonial Republican era, where columns, stained-glass windows and lofty ceilings were the height of luxury. In a neighborhood dotted with the capital’s finest galleries, you don't have to go far to soak up its rich art scene (MAC Lima is only a short walk away) and even the contemporary pieces that color the hotel's walls are worth a second look.

Insider tip: Barranco is regarded as Lima's top food district, and you’ll want to stop off at nearby Peruvian dining hotspots Chala and Cala for some of the city’s finest traditional ceviche.

casarepublica.com

Your home away from home at Villa Barranco by Ananay Hotels

Amid the eight spacious bedrooms that comprise this boutique address, you'll find an abundance of that home-away-from-home intimacy so coveted by hotel-wearied travelers. Vintage furnishings and trinkets abound in this Republican-era two-story manor, lending it character and a quirky disposition that make it perfectly at home among the vibrant cafe, museum, and gallery-filled streets of Barranco.

Don’t let its size and eccentric decor fool you, though—Villa Barranco's bougainvillea-framed hospitality is first rate and its crown jewel, the spacious Master Suite is fit for the Spanish conquistadors that once called the city home.

Insider tip: It's no secret that Barranco comes alive at night and, if braving the crowds at a nearby nightclub or bar hasn’t made it onto your itinerary, you can soak up the neighborhood’s buzzy atmosphere from Villa Barranco's rooftop terrace.

ananayhotels.com

Escape amid the flowers at the Hotel Antigua Miraflores

Along a path well-trodden, today by tourists and, a millennia ago, by pre-Incan civilizations traveling to the Huaca Pucllana temple, you’ll find yourself at the gate of the Antigua Miraflores Hotel. Miraflores means “behold the flowers,”and if you steal a glance out a window or step onto the hotel’s patio, that’s just what you’ll do, as the property is fringed with tropical bloom-filled bushes.

This charming 100-year-old Spanish-colonial casona (mansion) feels trapped in time, with traditional tiled floors and an eclectic array of antique and handcrafted furniture greeting you as you step inside. This doesn’t mean your amenities are dated though, as there are air conditioners and Jacuzzi tubs in each room. As you lie in bed listening to the center courtyard fountain, you’ll feel removed from the glitzy boardwalk developments like Larcomar which lie within walking distance.

Insider tip: Visit Huaca Pucllana, the stepped pyramid-like temple built by the Pre-Incan indigenous Lima civilization, for a glimpse into the city’s ancient past.

antiguamiraflores.com

Must-have experiences: Nearby Day Trips from Lima, Peru

Tue, 19 Sep 2023 11:30:23 -0400

Sitting atop a long coastline of cliffs battered by Pacific breakers, the cosmopolitan metropolis of Lima beguiles with its pre-Columbian temples, world-class museums, and one of Latin America’s best gastronomic scenes.

But if you’re looking to explore Peru beyond Lima, there are diverse experiences close the capital. From ancient pyramids, traditional villages, and mysterious desert lines left by long-lost civilizations to white-water rafting, wildlife spotting, and adrenaline-packed dune buggy adventures, these are the five experiences we can’t recommend enough.

Caral

One of the oldest cities in the Americas, the UNESCO-listed Caral (https://www.zonacaral.gob.pe) sits on the sunbaked flatlands of Supe Valley, framed by the bare, dramatic-looking mountain range. In one of only six places on Earth where civilization sprung up independently, Caral’s people thrived some 5,000 years ago, excelling at agriculture and music, conducting elaborate religious ceremonies, and making offerings to the gods on top of the city’s six stone pyramids.

Climb to the top of the stepped Great Pyramid to admire the massive sunken plaza, explore the Amphitheater Temple with its rows of mysterious niches, and view the Chupacigarro geoglyph that attests to the Caral people’s sophisticated knowledge of astronomy. A small interpretation center displays ancient jewelry and musical instruments made from animal bones.

How to get there: Catch a colectivo (shared minibus) from Lima to Supe and then another colectivo to Caral. Alternatively, you can make the 120-mile drive to the village of Caral and cross the footbridge yourself.

Nazca Lines

The Nazca Lines are giant animal geoglyphs and ancient geometric lines that crisscross the Nazca desert and one of the world’s most enduring and enigmatic mysteries that’s been baffling archaeologists and scientists for decades. They’re believed to have been made by the Paracas and Nazca cultures between 900 BC and AD 600 for purposes unknown.

As you soar above the Pampa Colorada in a tiny Cessna that dips from side to side and loops around to allow all passengers a glimpse, a giant hummingbird, a monkey, a spider, a condor, and a shaman with a mystical owl’s head sail into view. Then there are the perfect triangles etched into the desert, several miles long. Though we do know that the lines were created by painstakingly removing the darker layer of stones to reveal the lighter colored soil beneath, questions remain. How did the creators get the lines so straight? What purpose did the animal images serve?

How to get there: Lima is connected to the town of Nazca (six hours) by frequent long-distance buses, so it’s either a very long day or an overnighter. It’s possible to do a flight over the Nazca Lines from Pisco airport, closer to Lima, but these are more expensive than flights from Nazca.

Huacachina

Appearing like a mirage, Huacachina is a tiny village lined with retro hotels that sits next to a palm-fringed desert lagoon. Sand is the big attraction here. Visitors rent waxed sandboards in the village, then trudge up the dunes before surfing or belly-sliding their way back down.

Another adrenaline-filled way to experience the dunes is aboard rugged, open-sided areneros (dune buggies) that shimmy up and down the steep sandy slopes during early morning and late afternoon.

How to get here: Numerous long-distance buses run daily from Lima to Ica, 190 miles south (four hours). From Ica, you can catch an inexpensive taxi to Huacachina, a mere two and a half miles away.

Islas Ballestas and Reserva Nacional de Paracas

Accessed via two-hour boat tours departing from the fishing village of El Chaco, has an unmistakable olfactory presence, and you’ll smell the craggy little islands before you reach them. These small, uncovered boats sail past a peninsula that’s part of the Paracas National Reserve and home to the immense Candelabra geoglyph that’s etched into the sandy hillside, as well as diverse range of wildlife you can observe. There are plenty of opportunities to spot birds and colonies of seals and sea lions as the boats cruise around the islands’ arches and caves.

How to get there: Several daily buses run to El Chaco from Lima, a 3 and half hour trip, but you’ll want to catch an early ride since boat tours depart at 8:00 AM, 10:00 AM, and 12:00 PM.

Lunahuaná and Catapalla

Two things draw visitors to the small 17th century town of Lunahuaná: river rapids and wine. The Class IV rapids of the rushing Río Cañete are challenging enough even for experienced rafters and its waters simultaneously irrigate local vineyards. The best time of year for rafting is between December and April when the rains in the Andes swell the river banks, but if you’re looking for a gentler float, the rapids are Class III the rest of the year.

The tiny, traditional mountain village of Catapalla lies almost four miles further up the valley. Here you’ll find Bodega Reina de Lunahuaná (https://bodega-reina-de-lunahuana.negocio.site/), one of the oldest artisanal wineries in the area, right on the appealing main plaza. It excels at the production of pisco (Peruvian grape brandy), and its owners are happy to show you around and explain both the process and why Peruvian pisco is superior to Chilean when it comes to mixing a pisco sour, a cocktail that both countries claim as their own.

How to get there: Lunahuaná is 116 miles southeast of Lima. Frequent long-distance buses ply the Panamericana between Lima and Ica, stopping in San Vicente de Cañete. In Cañete, switch to a combi (shared minibus) to Nuevo Imperial (10 minutes) and then to another combi to Lunahuaná (45 minutes). A self-drive from Lima takes around three hours one-way.

The Taste of Lima: Peruvian Food Culture and History

Wed, 02 Nov 2022 14:15:13 -0400

Time-honored classics from pre-Inca civilizations and celebrity chefs steering gastronomy in bold directions: give your palate a gastronomic masterclass in the Peruvian capital.

Often cited as one of the world’s biggest culinary shake-ups is the birth of modern Peruvian cuisine.

Imagine two unique tidal waves forcefully colliding into each other, and you can begin to understand how history played out when pre-Columbian food collided with that of Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century. Other influences, notably Japanese and Chinese, have since crept in to create what is today considered typical Peruvian food.

And Lima, historically South America’s most important port, is where this continent-spanning gastronomy came together and is now exploding in innumerable directions.

A taste of tradition

Pre-Columbian Peruvian staples were alpaca, cuy (guinea pig) and seafood, often preserved by curing in chicha (a maize-fermented beverage), or by sun-drying. The most fabled Quechan contribution to the world is still ch’arki, a type of jerky. There were also 300 varieties of chili to play with, plus over 4,000 types of potato, with the planet’s very first cultivated near Peru’s Lake Titicaca 10,000-odd years ago. In the nation’s Andean Inca heartland, singular cooking traditions survive from the civilization’s heyday such as pachamanca—marinated meat cooked on hot stones.

Peruvian cuisine’s other constituent parts mostly came via Spain, including chicken, beef, pork, rice, cheese, onions, olives, and universally loved garnish cilantro. Altogether, this fusion makes up traditional comida criolla (Creole cuisine) and there is nowhere better to try it than at Miraflores’ Panchita (Calle 2 de Mayo 298). However, experiencing Peru’s broad palette of ingredients is often best done at markets like produce-rich Mercado de Surquillo (Lizardo Montero 705, Miraflores). While you’re here, journey into unfamiliar colors and tastes like blushing, tart camu camu, bruise-hued maíz morado cobs and scaly-green but succulently cherimoya.

Several Peruvian dishes act as “food museums” and celebrate this fusion of Old World and New World, not least of which is the national favorite, ceviche. Pre-Columbians were already preparing corvina (sea bass) by marinating it in chicha, but Spanish-introduced lime, flavored with chili and red onions, became the post-conquest marinade of choice. Even the Japanese, among Peru’s most influential diaspora, contributed by reducing the marinating time and giving rise to Peru’s now-legendary Nikkei food. The standout ceviche spot is La Mar (Mariscal La Mar 770, Miraflores): they work closely with Lima’s local fishermen to offer an unrivalled bounty of boat-fresh fish.

Insider tip: Eating at a cebichería (ceviche restaurant) is the Lima lunchtime experience: ask for the leche de tigre, the divine, tangy ceviche marinade, to be served to you separately in a glass.

FIVE MUST-TRY DISHES

Ceviche

Citrus-marinated chunks of fish, normally sea bass, served with red onions and chili alongside sweet potatoes. It’s Peru’s national dish and the perfect cool-down for sticky Lima lunchtimes.

Causa Limeña

This aesthetically pleasing appetizer, especially associated with Peru’s capital city, consists of shredded chicken, tuna, or trout stuffed between two layers of chili-infused mashed yellow potatoes.

Lomo Saltado

Sirloin strips marinated Chinese-style in soy sauce, vinegar, and spices, then stir-fried with tomatoes, red onions, and parsley. It’s a hearty comfort food plated with chips and rice.

Pollo de la Brasa

It’s essentially rotisserie chicken, but this is probably Peru’s most widely consumed dish. First created by Swiss national Roger Schuler in Lima province, the chicken is seasoned with salt and spit-cooked over charcoal.

Tacacho

Grilled or boiled plantains get smashed, seasoned, mixed with fat and pork rind, and topped with Peruvian chorizo. The result is textural perfection and it’s a dish traditionally eaten for breakfast.

A taste of the future

Michelin does not currently cover Peru but if they did, they would be star-struck. The country has fostered a brigade of chefs in recent decades that have acquired veritable rock star status across South America and are increasingly renowned overseas for their ambitious advancement of Peruvian gastronomy.

You cannot discuss the contemporary food scene without mentioning Gastón Acurio. The chef’s Astrid y Gastón (Av. Paz Soldán 290), now relocated to a palatial former hacienda in San Isidro, originally opened in 1994 and is considered modern Peruvian cuisine’s birthplace. Acurio and his wife Astrid began by offering French fare, then eventually made the switch to lavishing national dishes. The ever-burgeoning Acurio brand, boasting restaurants from Bogotá to Barcelona, is the most recognizable face of Peruvian food worldwide.

Virgilio Martínez is another household name. Landing Peru’s first Michelin star for his London-based Lima restaurant, his flagship is Central (Av. Pedro de Osma301) in Barranco. It’s topped Latin America’s edition of the 50 Best Restaurants list several times and is a regular top-tenner in the worldwide version, but such is Martínez’s creative drive that whatever gets written about Central dates fast. Suffice it to say that courses are themed around specific topographical regions and elevations, and Peru has 84 ecological zones, so there is ample inspiration. Menus are powered by vigorous research into food geography, Andean plankton through Amazonian arapaima, carried out by Martínez and his team at Mater Iniciativa.

Meanwhile Maido (San Martín 399) is where the artistry of Mitsuharu Tsumura, Peru-born but of Japanese descent, has made Nikkei food legendary. It’s the only equal to Central in terms of international accolades in the city.

Insider tip: You don’t need to spend huge sums to eat exceptional Peruvian food in Lima. Try trendy Mercado 28 (Av.Vasco Núñez de Balboa 755), where contemporary stalls serve high-quality national classics done differently.

Been There, Done That: The Best Things to Do in Lima, Peru

Wed, 02 Nov 2022 14:20:35 -0400

See the capital of Peru through a fresh lens, try new takes on old favorites and discover fascinating places far off the beaten tourist trail.

As South America’s third-largest metropolis, Lima might seem a little daunting at first. However, a bit of local knowledge can unlock authentic experiences that’ll quickly help you slide into rhythm of the city and transport you straight to its vibrant heart.

Lima is a place where pre-Incan pyramids stand alongside contemporary apartments, and where the coast is always close, but the mountains are never far.

From roaming street art rejuvenated suburbs, checking out captivating colonial churches, and discovering ancient archaeological sites to surfing off sandy beaches, and splashing about in mountainside waterfalls, here are some activities that embrace the enormous variety this city of contrasts has to offer.

BIG-HITTING HISTORY

Ponder Lima’s origins in the Plaza de Armas

All South American cities have central squares, and this one became the place where modern Lima began in 1535—as well as the nucleus of Spain’s entire South American empire for that matter. Renowned conquistador Francisco Pizarro, who secured Peru for the Spanish crown, chose the site himself. Often described during its history as one of the New World’s finest plazas, it still fails to disappoint.

The ornate Cathedral of Lima and adjoining Palacio Arzobispal, center of the Catholic church in Peru, occupy the southeast side, while the Baroque-style Palacio de Gobierno (constructed in 1937), Peruvian presidential HQ, flanks the northeast edge. Grab a seat overlooking the plaza’s 17th century fountain and drink in the history.

Insider tip: Peru’s central square has free Wi-Fi: a great spot to check emails without eating up your data allowance.

Look around Lima Cathedral

Raised on the site of an Incan shrine and palace, and with Pizarro laying its first stone in 1535, the city’s principal cathedral is a historical layer cake. It was rebuilt numerous times, and in its current guise, in the 17th and 18th centuries.

This white, double-towered building is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Historic Center of Lima, appropriately housing the tomb of Pizarro and one of the most splendid carved wooden altars in the Americas, an early 17th century Pedro de Noguera masterpiece. The cathedral is free to enter, but there’s a fee to enter its religious museum.

Insider tip: Guides are on hand to give in-depth cathedral tours for a charge.

Discover catacombs and rare books in Convento de San Francisco

This large, lemon-yellow 17th century Baroque church and convent is among Lima’s best-preserved colonial buildings. You can appreciate the intricate facade free of charge, but to see the best parts, take a tour inside.

A convent refectory houses Spanish master Francisco de Zurbarán’s imposing paintings representing the Twelve Apostles, a grand 25,000-volume library contains internationally important texts such as one of the first Spanish dictionaries and a 16th century Bible, and impressive double-tiered cloisters enfold a tranquil garden. Equally compelling is what lies beneath: labyrinthine catacombs, flanked by the bones of thousands of human remains.

Insider tip: Scrutinize Diego de la Puente’s painting of the Last Supper in the refectory: the disciples appear to be dining on cuy (guinea pig; traditional Peruvian food).

SEASIDE DREAMS

Meander along Miraflores’ clifftops

Strolling along the malecón (waterfront walkway), spanning a long, lovely band of almost continual green for several miles in front of flashy Miraflores neighborhood, feels like one of the single most satisfying Lima experiences.

Manicured paths lead from Larcomar shopping mall northwest into Miraflores’ equally plush neighboring district San Isidro, while cliffs plunge to the Pacific Ocean and views fan out along the city coast to Chorrillos. The prettiest section runs from Parque del Amor (Park of Love), surrounding its amorous sculpture El Beso (The Kiss), to lighthouse-crowned Parque El Faro.

Insider tip: Parque Antonio Raimondi is the hub of Lima’s active hang-gliding scene, and getting airborne offers up astonishing coastal panoramas.

Explore La Punta and Callao

The joke once was that the only reason to visit this port district was for the international airport alongside it. But huge efforts have rejuvenated this part of Lima so that emerging from your long-haul flight and coming straight to the relaxed little peninsula La Punta is infinitely more appealing than spending a traffic-snarled hour reaching your Miraflores or Barranco hotel.

Afterward, check out the bulky defenses of nearby Callao’s Fortaleza del Real Felipe, a vast, well-preserved fort constructed in 1774 to protect Lima from corsairs.

Insider tip: At Monumental Callao behind the port, street artists have brightened up a once-rough neighborhood around Plaza San Martín with murals and made it a hub for creative types.

Hit the sandy southern beaches

You don’t need to travel too far south of the city to encounter photogenic sweeps of sand. The nearest popular beach is at Punta Hermosa, 28 miles from central Lima. Like several other stretches of this coastline, big waves make it more popular with surfers than swimmers.

A more relaxed alternative is the quirky fishing village of Pucusana, 45 miles south of the center, which is delightfully free of the fog that often beleaguers Lima and has a more sheltered, sandy coast. Otherwise, travel 90 miles south of the city to Cerro Azul for the most dazzling beach of all, where well-kept sands and Southern Peru’s best surfing await.

Insider tip: Peru’s best beach weather is December through March.

THE ANCIENT AND THE ANDEAN

Step into prehistory at Pachacamac

One of Peru’s most unjustly overlooked archaeological complexes is a mere half-hour drive south of central Lima: a vast pre-Columbian citadel, dating back to at least 100 AD. Standing out from the dusty desert in the form of adobe walls, palaces, and temples, it was at different times home to the Lima, Wari, Ichma, and Inca civilizations. There is a good, modern on-site museum, and views from atop the mighty Templo del Sol (Temple of the Sun) are excellent on a clear day. pachacamac.culutura.pe

Insider tip: Five miles north of the ruins, you can lose civilization within the lush, craggy hiking area of Lomas de Lúcumo.

Adventure into the mountains at Obrajillo

Although the rugged Andes are not generally associated with a Lima day trip, a two-hour drive takes you into the verdant foothills, where you’ll reach the time-trapped mountainside village of Obrajillo.

It’s a fantastic place to relax away from the busy city, with days spent rambling to bucolic viewpoints, archaeological sites, waterfalls, and swimming spots. The green pocket of paradise is south of Canta, 65 miles northeast of Lima.

Insider tip: It’s tradition to feast on platters of Andean-style meat and potatoes by Obrajillo’s pretty riverside, cooked à la pachamanca on hot stones in the ground.