Barcelona Itineraries

Market day in Barcelona: four of our favorites.

Wed, 12 Oct 2022 16:08:52 -0400

Markets are a part of daily life in Barcelona, and if you venture beyond the city center, you’ll likely stumble across streets and squares lined with stalls creaking under the weight of local delicacies. Some markets, however, are worth planning your whole day around, and we’ve pinpointed four of our favorites which range from temples of fine food to bustling flea markets full of antique finds.

You’ll often find that the bars and restaurants that surround the markets are among the best to sample fresh local cuisine. If you want to guarantee the quality, simply observe which ones seem the busiest.

Best for: Fine Catalonian produce

Mercat de la Boqueria

Midway along La Rambla, on the right as you head toward the sea, is Mercat de la Boqueria, Barcelona’s most famous food market. It may be a popular tourist destination, but it’s also a working market, supplying the city’s residents and restaurateurs with seasonal produce galore, all while being home to a slew of cozy bars and restaurants. If you just want to wander around and snack, you’re sure to quickly find something that will please your taste buds.

It might be sacrilege to recommend Italian food in Spain, but for a quick bite, head to the center of the market behind the fish stalls. From a wood-fired oven, you can buy pizza by the slice. It is, we’re told, a favorite of El Bulli founder Ferran Adrià. boqueria.barcelona/home

Insider tip: The market still favors cash, so if you’re going there to buy, don’t take cards alone. It’s open from 8:00 AM to 8:30 PM, but you don’t need to go get there too early. Things only really start to get going around 10:00 AM and are at their busiest around 2:00 PM.

Best for: Finding a bargain

Mercat Del Encants

Dating back to the 14th century, Mercat Del Encants is said to be one of the oldest markets in Europe, which is difficult to believe as you browse the roughly 500 stalls set under a gleaming, gold mirrored roof. Like all flea markets, there’s a real mix of wares being sold, from second-hand books and records to fine antiques and collectables. If you’re prepared to spend an hour or two sifting through the wares of these merchants, you’re sure to find a gem.

It’s open on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM, while antique auctions take place from 7:15 AM until 8:30 AM Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. They’re open to the public and it’s great to watch the bidding battles between local dealers. encantsbarcelona.com/en

Insider tip: The market is a short stroll from the Sagrada Familia, so many visitors combine the two in one morning. Alternatively, walk to Carrer d’Alaba for lunch by the sea.

Best for: Mixing with the locals

Mercat de Sant Antoni

Rising above the low-rise houses of the Sant Antoni district, Barcelonians are very proud of this octagonal steel-framed market hall designed Antoni Rovira i Trias in 1882. Having closed for nine years for extensive renovations, it has reopened the joy of the residents and food-focused tourists.

Divided into several clear sections, you can wander along aisles of fresh meat and seafood, flick through boxes of second-hand records, find literary classics, and pick up useful pieces of homeware. It’s busy all day, but never gets over-crowded and is open from Monday to Saturday 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM. mercatdesantantoni.com

Insider tip: While you’re in the area, it’s a great opportunity to visit Montjuïc Castle and the surrounding botanical gardens. The views along the coast from its elevated position are some of the best in the city.

Best for: Packing a picnic

Mercat de Galvany

With its steeple roof, stained glass windows, and Greek Cross floor plan, it’d be easy to mistake this as another of Barcelona’s modernist church buildings. However, this temple to food was intentionally built as a market in 1927 and has been trading local delicacies ever since. If you visit, be sure you don’t miss the beautiful mosaic of food above the door as you enter.

Inside, it’s a cavernous, bustling space with stalls stacked with temptations like unique cheeses, specialty charcuterie, and fresh-baked goods. The market is open Monday to Saturday, 7:00 AM to 2:30 PM, with a late closing on Fridays at 8:00 PM. mercatgalvany.es/en/market

The information provided herein is sponsored by Diners Club International®. It is intended for informational purposes and is not intended as a substitute for professional advice. Content on this website may contain information from third parties and/or links to third-party websites. Diners Club International bears no responsibility for the accuracy, legality or content of this information.

Barcelona’s marvelous urban marathon

Wed, 12 Oct 2022 16:15:46 -0400

Dive into the Catalan capital’s thrills along the monument-packed route of its lively spring marathon.

From awe-inspiring Modernista architecture to the Mediterranean’s golden shores, the Zurich Marató Barcelona is a 42km-long springtime spin in early May, taking in everything that’s irresistible about Catalonia’s capital. Originally held back in 1978 in Palafrugell on the Costa Brava before relocating to Barcelona, it’s Spain’s first official marathon. Here’s a taste of the many highlights along the race route.

Camp Nou

From Plaça d’Espanya, at the foot of Mount Montjuïc, head west to the city’s beloved Camp Nou. Built in the 1950s, this staggeringly enormous stadium is home base for one of Spain’s top football teams, the legendary FC Barcelona. If you haven’t bagged a sought-after match ticket, tours of the almost-sacred grounds include the 100,000-person stadium, dressing rooms, and a wonderfully interactive museum.

Casa Batlló and La Sagrada Família

At the heart of the route lies some of Antoni Gaudí’s most inspired creations. Overlooking Passeig de Gràcia, Casa Batlló is a swirling 1906 beauty of an apartment complex crammed with classic Gaudían design (flowing lines, hyperboloid arches, trencadís tilework) and topped by a dragon-inspired roof. But for most, the UNESCO-listed and as yet unfinished Sagrada Família is the pinnacle of Gaudí’s work, a wondrous sky-spiraling church modeled on the natural world, with intricately sculpted facades and towers, whose journey began back in the 1880s. Make sure you prebook tickets to skip the line.

Torre Glòries and Poblenou

Designed by the French architect Jean Nouvel, the bullet-shaped Torre Glòries skyscraper looms high above the post-industrial Poblenou neighborhood, and its 38th floor dome has been transformed into a 360º viewing platform. The building lights up at night when its 4,500 glass panels are illuminated. Creative cafes, art galleries, tech-industry hangouts, and design stores dot the surrounding streets, while Poblenou’s traditional tree-shaded rambla is lined with Modernista buildings that leads down to a strip of golden beach filled with lively sea-view restaurants.

Arc de Triomf and El Born

After tracking along Barcelona’s shimmering coastline towards Barceloneta, venture north past 19th century Parc de la Ciutadella to the bold Arc de Triomf created by the Catalan architect Josep Vilaseca for the Exposición Universal de Barcelona in 1888. Just southwest, the always buzzing El Born is packed with wine bars, brunch cafes, chic boutiques, and tapas spots (we recommend Cal Pep and El Xampanyet). Don’t miss the 14th century Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar or the rainbow-roofed Mercat de Santa Caterina—another great food-and-drink pitstop.

Cathedral and Barri Gòtic

Barcelona’s ancient soul revolves around the narrow, cobbled lanes of the evocative Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), which sprawls around the spectacular Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, a jewel of Catalan Gothic architecture. Dating from Roman times, this area is a joy to explore, particularly around the old Jewish El Call area, and has some inspired traditional shops, such as the espadrille haven La Manual Alpargatera.

El Raval & Sant Antoni

The final stretch of the marathon weaves past La Rambla along the edge of El Raval, a famously multicultural neighborhood with a creative edge. Favorite foodie stops in El Raval include Cañete for innovative tapas, Caravelle for world-roaming brunches, brewpub Fábrica Moritz, and Japanese-inspired Michelin-starred Dos Palillos. Just west of El Raval, off Avinguda del Paral·lel, Sant Antoni is a stylish, leafy hub filled with fabulous restaurants, independent boutiques, and a revamped late-19th century market.

Insider tip: A 10-minute stroll south of the Sagrada Família, Passeig de Sant Joan is packed with vermouth bars, brunch haunts, pizza parlors in reimagined warehouses, and a host of gourmet food stores.

Five great running and jogging routes

With its wealth of green spaces, a pristine view of the Mediterranean coastline, and more than 2,500 annual hours of sunshine, Barcelona is a delight for runners and joggers.

Carretera de les Aigües
Join the Barcelonians for an escape-it-all jog along this 10km unpaved track, which clings to the slopes of the Collserola hills with views cascading across the city to the Mediterranean.

Barcelona’s seafront
Soul-stirring coastal panoramas (particularly at sunset) fuel runners along the palm-studded seafront promenade from the sail-like W Barcelona hotel to the up-and-coming Poblenou. It’s 5km one-way, with an optional 2km add-on to El Fòrum, where you can go swimming off the steps.

Montjuïc Mountain
Some of the city’s most unforgettable sights are dotted across Montjuïc, which hosted the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. Sprawling urban views, fragrant gardens and plenty of stair climbs make for a scenic, challenging workout.

Parc Fluvial del Besòs
Flanking the Besòs River, this 284-acre park on Barcelona’s northeast fringes is the result of a years-in-the-works regeneration project, with 5km open for running, as well as cycling, strolling, and dog-walking.

Parc Natural de Collserola
Around 80sq km of pine-forested, trail-threaded hills make up the beloved (and easily accessible) protected park rippling along Barcelona’s northern edge.

Join the autumn wine harvest in Catalonia

Tue, 15 Mar 2022 15:30:42 -0400

Autumn equals harvest time in the rugged wine regions of Catalonia and any trip to Barcelona at this time of year should involve a day among the vines, tasting some of the most unique vino in Europe.

Just as the Catalan people pride themselves on their fiercely passionate and independent spirit, Catalan wines do the same. Divided into 10 regions, the sun-drenched vineyards are lined with rows of various Mediterranean grapes, ranging from the fruity garnacha and slightly smoky carignan to the ubiquitous xarel-lo, which is the key to a perfect dry cava.

Wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean, the unique climate and salty sea breeze means dry whites and full-bodied reds flourish here. There’s also some intense minerality in most bottles thanks to the granite, chalk and slate soils that the vines are planted in. September to November is when vineyards are busy with the harvest and production processes, making late summer/early fall the perfect time to visit. But where to go?

The three most important wine regions

Rent a car and hit the road to explore the rugged wine-growing terrain that encompasses the eastern and southern regions of Barcelona. A short drive will take you into the heart of wine country, where many of the family-run estates offer tours and tastings. Some are even willing to play host, with beautiful guest rooms available if you’re looking to extend your stay.

Penedès

To fit in with the local way of things, every meal in Barcelona should begin with a cold, crisp glass of cava. Having been the main supplier of corks to the Champagne producers of France, Catalan farmers of the mid 19^th-century emulated the methodology of fermenting the wine in the bottle and ageing it in cellars to produce their own version of fizz. Today around 95% of the dry sparkling wine comes from Catalonia, and most of it is produced in Penedès.

To see production on a massive scale, book a visit at Codorníu in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. One of the first cava producers in Spain, the interactive tour takes you on a journey through both the winery and time. You’ll enter the estate’s modernist buildings, where you’ll learn about the history and production of this famous export. You’ll then head underground to explore the 20-mile network of cellars, where you’ll sample some of the finest vintages, including Anna de Codorniu and the Non Plus Ultra.

It’s exported all over the world, but some of the best bottles are kept in the region and found in the fridges of Barcelona’s many xampanyerias (cava bars). Worlds away from glimmering champagne bars of Paris, these local drinking spots are loud, busy, and full of local characters.

Priorat

Until 1989, this beautiful, hilly region located 90 miles southwest of Barcelona had no wine industry to speak of, that is until five pioneering makers teamed up to produce a single high-quality wine from grapes harvested near the town of Gratallops. Today, there are more than 60 bodegas making the most of the unique terrain that gives the grapes 360-degree exposure. Some vines absorb the cool Mediterranean breeze while others bask in the heat of the inland plains. It results in some of the most interesting wines in Spain, and it’s best experienced at one of the smaller estates like Celler Devinssi. They take a natural approach to wine growing, allowing the vines to co-exist with native flowers, oaks, wild roses, as well as nut and olive trees. Plus, each tour and tasting is customized to match your tastes.

Insider tip: Don’t miss the ancient port city of Tarragona, which is built around the ruins of Spain’s second-most important Roman site (after Mérida). The knot of lanes in the medieval center is home to wonderful, atmospheric restaurants that specialize in simple grilled seafood landed that day.

Terra Alta

Some people describe Terra Alta as Spain’s version of Tuscany. As you move along the quiet winding country roads, past rows of vines, fields of olive trees and hilltop villages, it’s easy to see why the comparison is drawn. Their wine also rivals its Italian counterpart and with elevations up to 3,000ft, it’s one of the highest regions in Catalonia, resulting in full-bodied reds made with garnacha, carignan, syrah, and cabernet sauvignon.

To sample some of the finest bottles in the region, set the satnav for the medieval village of Batea, where Celler Piñol creates 13 complex organic wines, including the highly regarded Sa Natura with aromas of coffee, black pepper, and herbs. There are four apartments on the estate, meaning you can indulge in the full range without worrying about driving back to Barcelona.

Insider tip: Picasso was seduced by the golden light and hilltop villages of Terra Alta, and it’s believed that the two summers he spent here shaped his early cubist style. One of the most iconic pieces from his time in the region, The Reservoir, Horta de Ebro, now hangs in New York’s MoMA.

Live like a local: Barcelona

Fri, 29 Jul 2022 10:18:52 -0400

From cacti gardens to bunker views and street art, this is where Barcelonians hang out.

As locals will tell you, there’s a lot more to Barcelona than the Sagrada Família and Las Ramblas. That’s why we’ve gone in search of local favorites you’ll want to take the time to explore. From the city’s coolest neighborhoods and secret parks to its most culturally significant works of art—plus everything in-between—this guide is sure to help even the most seasoned travelers find something new to marvel at.

Our advice? Pack comfortable shoes and get ready to explore.

Can’t-miss neighborhoods

Gràcia is just one stop up from the top of Passeig de Gràcia, but it feels like an entirely different world. And in a way, it is. Gràcia used to be an independent municipality until the 19th century, when it was annexed by the Catalan capital. It kept its independent spirit however, and today attracts the young and trendy to its pedestrianized streets, intriguing shops, brightly colored buildings, and charming cafés.

In Gràcia, you’ll also be able to walk in the footsteps of Antoni Gaudí, Barcelona’s foremost and most influential architect. Forego busier landmarks in favor of Casa Vicens Gaudí (Carrer de les Carolines), the architect’s first house. This Moorish-influenced building matches his more prominent landmarks in craftsmanship and bold vision and is a maximalist design dream.

Once you’ve had your Gaudí fill, visit the shops along the main boulevard, Gran de Gràcia, or get lost in the tiny backstreets behind the boulevard and explore what’s in-store at the local boutiques. Be sure not to miss out on Carrer de Verdi either, where bars vie for space with independent shops of all descriptions. When you’re at your limit, drop your bags and order a cortado from one of the neighborhood’s many terrace cafés. Take in the caffeine and soak up the atmosphere in one of Gràcia’s main squares, such as Plaça del Sol, Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia, or Plaça de la Virreina.

Secret parks and hidden gardens

For a different, lesser-known approach to Gaudí’s legacy, take a stroll through Parc de la Ciutadella in the El Born district, one of the city’s most historic and liveliest areas. Worth noting—even as a student, Gaudi was able to help design the park’s iconic fountain, Cascada Monumental (Parc de la Ciutadella, Passeig de Picasso). From there, you have some options. You could immerse yourself in the hustle and bustle of Via Laietana, take in the Plaça de Santa Maria and its beautiful basilica, or indulge in one of the many tapas bars. No matter what you choose, the area’s artistic vibe will be sure to enhance any experience.

Like many of the gardens in and around Montjuïc, the Jardins del Teatre Grec, or Greek Theater Gardens (Passeig de Santa Madrona), was created to celebrate the 1929 International Exhibition that was held in Barcelona. Open to the public, the gardens are the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Catalan capital. Take a book and plan a picnic, enjoy the peace and quiet in the rose garden, then gaze across Barcelona’s skyline from the terraced viewpoint area.

If you feel like losing yourself in a Wonderland-style maze, then Parc del Laberint d’Horta (Passeig dels Castanyers) should be at top of your list. As the city’s oldest garden, it’s beauty is capable of surprising even lifelong locals. Before attempting to make your way to the center, get your bearings straight by standing on the large terrace overlooking the gardens.

Another little-known garden is the Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera (Ctra. de Miramar). Situated on a mirador just a few minutes from the city center, this sea-facing garden is sheltered by Montjuïc and offers a panoramic view of the city’s coastline and port. The gardens host an impressive collection of tropical, desert, and high-mountain plants. This treasure trove of cacti and succulents is actually Europe’s largest collection of cacti, with some species reaching over 16 feet tall.

Insider tip: Visit the Parc del Laberint d’Horta on a Wednesday or Sunday, when the entrance fee is waived.

View from the top

Perched high above the Carmel neighborhood, the Bunkers del Carmel at the Turó de la Rovira (Carrer de Marià Labèrnia) these historic fortifications offer an unparalleled view of the cityscape. Do as the locals do and plan on taking in the sunset. Pack a bottle and some bites and watch the sun sink into the sea.

More magical views can be enjoyed from the panoramic area of Tibidabo (Plaça del Tibidabo), the highest point of the Serra de Collserola Natural Park. Positioned 512 meters above sea level, you’ll see Barcelona spread out below you in all its glory. While rides such as the Giradabo and other attractions found in Barcelona’s famous amusement park next door require an entrance fee, the panoramic space itself is free to access. While you’re here, be sure to visit the Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor de Jesús (Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus) and the Jardines del Vivero de Can Borni which are both absolute must-sees.

Uncover Barcelona’s street art

With so much culture packed into one city, it should come as no surprise that Barcelona is one of the world’s top 10 street-art destinations. Make your way towards the Catedral de Barcelona (Carrer de Milans) to find the photo mosaic known as El Món Neix en Cada Besada (The World Begins With Every Kiss) mural. Originally created as a temporary exhibit for Catalonia Day in 2014 but never taken down, the mural is made up of 4,000 tiles with photos printed on them. When viewed from afar, the tiles show two people kissing.

Another stop worth making is La Carbonería (Carrer del Comte d'Urgell), an abandoned coal factory in the Eixample district that features a stunning hot-air balloon painted on its façade—one of the most photographed murals in Barcelona. For an open-air gallery packed with highlights, head to the El Raval district, where you’ll find both world-famous works as well as pieces by up-and-coming artists. Look out for fish characters by world-renowned street artist PEZ, as well as more psychedelic and tribal forms of expression with the occasional dash of the abstract, courtesy of H101, another well-known artist. If you’re worried about getting lost in the winding maze-like streets, several companies in Barcelona host excellent guided tours.

Insider tip: If you’re in the El Born neighborhood, walk its streets after dusk when the local shops close – many of the area’s best graffiti works can be found on the shutters!

The history (and etiquette) of eating tapas in Barcelona

Tue, 15 Mar 2022 18:58:19 -0400

The evening ritual of sharing tapas with friends, family and colleagues is a way of life in Barcelona. But what should you expect when you cram into a small, local bar for small plates and cerveza?

In many ways, it feels strange to focus on the etiquette of tapas.

By its very nature, these bite-size dishes are all about sharing, using your fingers, and unabashedly digging in. So, while dining decorum should not be your main concern, what looks so natural to the locals does take a bit of getting used to—especially if it’s your first time squeezing into one of the tiny tapas bars that line the streets around El Raval and Barri Gòtic.

But once you’ve mastered the art of ordering and eating tapas, you’ll feel right at home, and before you know it, you’ll no longer be regarded a guiri—the name some Barcelona locals bestow on tourists unwilling to adopt their culture.

The food of kings

Like many culinary traditions, the origins of tapas are contested. Some believe it was born in the 13^th century when, during an illness, King Alfonso X of Castile could only manage to eat small bites of food at a time. The king thought this was marvelous and, on his recovery, decreed that all drinks should be served with a small snack.

As charming as this tale is, it’s refuted by many food historians. An alternative (and more practical) reason for the cuisine's existence is that the small, regular bites of food and glasses of wine were a great way of keeping 18th-century farmers and laborers going throughout the day before their carb-heavy, mid-afternoon lunch, which was quickly followed by a siesta.

Whatever the true story is, everyone agrees that most of the early dishes were served on top of a slice of bread placed over a sherry glass to keep the fruit flies at bay. Tapas means “to cover,” and in some cases the bread didn’t make an appearance at all, with only a slice of serrano ham laid over the glass. Today, things have become slightly more sophisticated. Serrano ham is still served, but it’s often paired with sweet Spanish melon and the zesty tang of Manchego cheese.

Where to start

More often than not, the best way to find a decent tapas bar is to follow your instincts. The busier the place, the better the food, just be prepared to fight your way to the bar. The most popular spots can get quite crowded, especially as the weekend approaches and local workers pile out of the office looking for cold beer and plates of patatas bravas (roasted potatoes in a spicy sauce)" .

When it comes to finding a seat, your best bet is to let the staff know you’re there to eat, not just drink, and they’ll often do their best to find you a space. In contrast to the bright Barcelona sunshine, the bars are often dimly lit and smoky. And while smoking isn’t allowed inside, the kitchens use extremely hot grills and friers, and the old establishments aren’t always the most ventilated. As a result, it’s advised to avoid wearing your finest clothes if you don’t intend doing laundry while you’re in town.

The order of service

Some bars will have the day’s dishes etched on the wall in chalk, while others will showcase what’s on offer on top of the bar. You may even find yourself in a spot with no menu at all. If this happens, just ask for help. The staff will be delighted to recommend the house specialties or dishes popular among regulars and will tell you when to stop, as it’s easy to over-order without a little guidance. If you’re a vegan or vegetarian, your choices may be limited, as most dishes will include some form of meat or cheese. But don’t let that stop you from asking what’s available! You never know if the chef may be able to create something bespoke just for you.

You may also notice that the staff won't write down your order. This is normal, so don’t fret. You’ll be sure to get everything you ordered quickly and in no particular order. The dishes are designed to be communal and informal, so be prepared to share and to try things you may not usually eat. Also, don’t try to be polite and leave that last piece for someone else to eat. Food left untouched will be whisked away by the staff with very little warning.

When you’re ready to leave, simply request “la cuenta,” and your check will be brought to you. Tipping is not always required in Barcelona, but most locals will round up the cost to the nearest euro. If you’re feeling more generous, a 10-15% tip will be greatly appreciated, and you may well be ushered straight to a table if you happen to return during your trip.

If this has given you an appetite to plan a trip to Barcelona, you can discover the most authentic places to sample tapas and recommendations on what to order here: The taste of Barcelona.

Been there, done that: Barcelona

Tue, 15 Mar 2022 19:02:43 -0400

From Gaudí’s geometric gems to local markets bursting with Catalonia’s seasonal produce, we share the experiences that should be on every visitor’s to-do list

With its bustling quarters, world-famous museums, and otherworldly Gaudí landmarks, your first trip to Barcelona can be every bit overwhelming as it is exhilarating. Having a bit of local knowledge is key to making the most of your time in this enchanting destination. From the big-name attractions to some of the more under-the-radar sights, this guide is here to help you explore both sides of the city.

Lizards and mosaics at Park Güell

Few architects have made an impression on a city as profound as the one left by Catalonian native Antoni Gaudí.

In fact, seven of his creations are designated UNESCO World Heritage sites—all of which can be found within the city limits. Defined by organic shapes and haphazard ornamentation, and rooted in Gaudí’s Catalan heritage and Catholic faith, the city’s Park Güell is perhaps the best and most well-known example of his work.

The location was chosen for its views out to sea, but the immediate surroundings are just as awe-inspiring, as the park is nothing short of a free-flowing wonder full of geometric precision. You can get in for free, but it’s worth buying a ticket to access the full experience. For only a few euros, your ticket will get you into the park’s most famous spots, including The Dragon Stairway and Nature Square. parkguell.barcelona

Insider tip: Book in advance and ensure you’re on time for your allotted slot: there are no concessions made to those who arrive later than the designated time on their ticket.

Head to the sea

There’s no better place to relax than the shores of the Mediterranean. The ribbon of honey-colored sand runs from the port in the north to the quiet beaches of the south—a local favorite.

Given its proximity to the city, most people will flock to the parasol-dotted sands of Barceloneta Beach. The man-made stretch of sand is backed by a promenade full of Hawaiian palm trees and xiringuitos (beach bars). Its high energy is great for a group of friends, but for something more family-friendly, lay your towel and unpack your picnic at the edge of the warm, shallow waters of Nova Icària Beach, which is overseen by lifeguards and even has table tennis and volleyball to keep the kids busy.

Insider tip: For a quieter day of sunbathing, hop on the train at Barcelona-Sants station for a 20-minute journey to the beaches of Castelldefels. It’s typically easy to find a spacious spot on the crescent-shaped bay.

The spires of the Sagrada Família

Famously unfinished despite construction beginning in 1882, the Basílica de la Sagrada Família is currently expected to be complete around 2030. Despite being a work in progress for well over a hundred years, this should be near the top of every traveler’s list, as the basilica’s unique melding of gothic and art nouveau styles must be witnessed in person to truly be appreciated. sagradafamilia.org

Insider tip: As you might expect, demand for tickets is high and you often need to book days in advance.

Step back in time in Barri Gotic

Despite its name, and the fact it encompasses elements of the old Roman wall and several medieval buildings, much of the Gothic Quarter’s external appearance only dates back to the 19^th and 20^th centuries. However, that doesn’t make it any less impressive, especially as its winding alleys offers an interesting departure from the grid system of the rest of the city.

No matter the time of day or night, there are always people about, things to see, and places to stumble upon or into. Must-sees include the cathedral, the Plaça de Sant Felip Neri, and the Plaça Reial, with its Gaudí-designed streetlamps.

Insider tip: Looking to shop? Try Carrer d’Avinyó, one of Barcelona’s oldest streets, for stylish independent stores.

Sensory overload at La Boqueria

Midway along La Rambla as you head toward the sea is Mercat de la Boqueria, Barcelona’s most famous food market. A popular tourist destination, this food market supplies the city’s residents with seasonal produce while functioning as home to several cozy bars and restaurants. If you just want to wander around and snack, you’ll quickly find something to please your taste buds.

It might be a mild faux pas to recommend Italian food while touring Spain, but we may have found an exception. For a quick bite, head to the center of the market behind the fish stalls to enjoy some wood-fired pizza by the slice. We’re told it’s a favorite of El Bulli founder Ferran Adrià. boqueria.barcelona/home

Insider tip: Parts of the market still favor cash over card, so come prepared. It’s open from 8:00 a.m. to 8.30 p.m., but you don’t need to arrive too early. The market typically becomes lively around 10:00 a.m., with the peak of the hustle and bustle occurring around 2:00 p.m.

La Boqueria too busy?

If you love markets but aren’t too keen on the hordes flocking to la Boqueria, try the nearby Mercat de Sant Antoni and Mercat de Santa Caterina instead. Both are brilliant for local ingredients. Mercat de Sant Antoni reopened after a nine-year renovation project and includes clothes and bric-a-brac stalls, as well as a thriving book market on Sundays. Mercat de Santa Caterina, where food is very much the specialty, boasts a colorful, wave-like rooftop that makes it unmistakable.

Insider tip: For specialty Catalonian cheeses like fresh goat’s milk Bauma Carrat and creamy wheels of Nevat, look no further than Cansaladeria-Xarcuteria Can Martí Jordi in the Mercat de Santa Caterina for the city’s best selection. And if their selection has you feeling overwhelmed, they’ll happily let you taste before you buy.

Carnivals of kings and giants

Tue, 15 Mar 2022 19:20:18 -0400

These carnivals and parades express Catalonia’s long history and distinct culture, while also showing the contemporary spirit of Barcelona and its knack for throwing a memorable party.

Catalans are fiercely proud of the language, culture, and history that distinguish this autonomous region from the rest of Spain, and Barcelona’s year-round processions, parades, and parties are vivid displays of those distinct Catalan traditions. From the time-honored Carnestoltes (Carnival) festivities that take place near the end of winter, to the 24-hour party crowds of the summer’s festes majors, it’s hard to miss the teetering processions of papier-mâché gegants i capgrossos (giants and big heads), which are made by rival guilds and respectively paraded by a geganter (giant carrier) or worn over the head and shoulders.

Equally striking is the correfoc, or “fire-run,” a devilish outdoor performance that is believed to be able to banish demons. The ritual involves diabolically dressed participants wielding pitchforks and lighting off fireworks. Seasoned locals don protective clothing and engage with the fiery performers in the streets, but we recommend keeping a safe distance. Many of these practices have their roots in Roman Catholic traditions and Catalan folklore, and the latter gave rise to the centuries-old, UNESCO-protected castells—human towers that reach up to 10 levels high. Be sure to also be on the lookout for the circular sardana dance. This custom originated in Catalonia’s Empordá region, and the live music, Estrella Damm lager, and heaving buffets of local specialties fuel every Catalan celebration.

Welcome the kings at Epiphany - January

The most important date of the Christmas period in Spain, the day when gifts are given, is Epiphany on January 6th. The previous evening sees the Cabalgata de Reyes (Three Kings Parade), when a costumed trio throws sweets to children from regal floats. Instead of stockings, hopeful children leave straw-stuffed shoes out, water for the kings’ camels, and a letter to Father Christmas. The day itself, which marks the end of Barcelona’s festive holiday, ends with a feast featuring a Roscón de Reyes cake.

A last party before Lent at Carnival – February/March

Francisco Franco may have outlawed this masked festival, but for centuries Barcelonians have thrown a joyous week of parades and parties to usher in the abstinences of Lent and Holy Week. Key parts of the celebration, which take place the week before Ash Wednesday, include the communal banquets of Dijous Gras (Fat Thursday), parades to mark the Carnival King’s arrival, a messy orange-throwing battle, and a masked ball. In the Catalan town of Sitges, black-clad drag queens join a closing procession to mourn the death of the party-personifying Carnival King.

Books and roses at Dia de Sant Jordi – April

Centuries-old traditions combine in the feast day of Catalonia’s patron saint, when rose stalls fill thoroughfares such as La Rambla, recalling the flower that chivalrous Saint George presented to the princess after slaying the dragon. Roses adorn the wavy balconies of Gaudí’s Casa Batlló, sardana dances and impressive castells enliven squares such as Plaça de Sant Jaume.

However, you’re just as likely to receive a book instead of a rose during the celebration, as World Book Day is celebrated during the festival, as well. Expect to find bookstalls, signings, and readings being performed, as they’ve become a regular feature of the festival.

Explosive displays on Nit de Sant Joan – June

The sky above Barcelona fills with fireworks during the all-night celebrations of the summer solstice and Saint John the Baptist’s birthday on June 23^rd, followed by a public holiday to allow residents to catch up on their sleep. Seaside Barceloneta’s beaches are fuller during this time than what you might expect on a typical summer Sunday. The sands are teaming with parties held outside the local beach bars, while the Old Town’s streets fill with revelers of their own. The fireworks supposedly banish demons, and Barceloneta hosts a famous correfoc (fire run), featuring pitchfork- and firework-wielding devils and monsters.

Neighborhood parties at Festa Major – August

The festes majors or “big parties” that descend on Barcelona’s neighborhoods and surrounding towns are a rowdy cross between a carnival and a music festival, with Catalan traditions adding a strong bit of local flavor. They’re an excellent opportunity to see fiery correfocs, hair-raising castells and sardana dances, as well as parades of papier-mâché giants in the street. Some of the liveliest events take place in August, including the Festa de Sant Roc in the Gothic Quarter and the Festa Major de Sants.

Canopies of banners at Festa Major de Gràcia – August

Barcelona’s cool Gràcia neighborhood, home to 19^th-century boulevards, fashionable boutiques, and Gaudí’s Parc Güell, hosts the widely acknowledged highlight of the festa calendar. Beginning on Assumption Day, the week-long festival pulls out all the stops, with around 20 streets and plazas resembling a multicolored cave, thanks to the competitive residents’ themed displays of banners, banting, papier-mâché sculptures, and more. It’s a surreal setting for the beloved street party, which dates to 1817 and managed to survive the oppressive Franco era.

Live music and street theatre at La Mercè – September

In classic Catalan fashion, Barcelona’s city-wide festa began as a celebration of the Roman Catholic feast day of La Mare de Déu de la Mercè (Our Lady of Mercy), with carnival-esque elements later added to one of Europe’s largest street festivals. Held over a few days around September 24^th, the festival fills parks and plazas across town with installations, markets and food fairs, while the avenues showcase street theatre and parades of towering gegants i capgrossos. These days, catching some live music is a popular part of celebration, thanks to the concerts in the BAM (Barcelona Acció Musical) and Més Música programs.

The taste of Barcelona

Tue, 08 Mar 2022 14:55:15 -0500

From stellar street food vendors and neighborhood tapas bars to the molecular gastronomy of Michelin-starred restaurants and modern Catalan-Asian fusion restaurants, Barcelona has something for everyone.

It’s not a stretch to say that few cities in the world can consistently compete with Barcelona’s culinary prowess. Food is that inseparable from the city and its people. And now, more than ever, is the perfect time to take in the culture of the city—both figuratively and literally.

A taste of tradition

No dive into Catalonian cuisine is complete without a nod to Spain’s most iconic culinary staple: tapas. In fact, Catalan tapas are as much a part of Barcelona’s DNA as Gaudi’s architectural masterpieces. You can indulge in these delicious bite-sized treats for a quick midday snack or even during dinner. Pair this classic with a refreshing glass of sangria or delicious wine and you’re well on your way to a memorable evening. And while the city’s tapas scene has evolved into a highly sophisticated culinary movement, many of the best tapas can still be found in deceivingly simple spaces.

One such classic would be Cal Pep (Plaça de les Olles, 8, 08003 Barcelona). This no-frills space is open to everyone. Just pull up a chair at the bar and order an enduring favorite: chef Josep ‘Pep’ Manubens Figueres’ flavorful Spanish tortilla—arguably the best in Barcelona.

For traditional tapas with more of a creative twist, head to another staple, Can Boneta (Carrer de Balmes, 139, 08008 Barcelona), where you can try vibrant dishes such as strawberry gazpacho, aubergine tartare with romesco green sauce and smoked sardine, and red prawn ravioli with pickled wild mushrooms and pine nut vinaigrette.

Five must-try dishes

Catalonian food is proof that simple is often best. With no shortage of farm-fresh, high-quality produce being expertly turned into flavorful creations, plant-based dishes tend to steal the spotlight. Take the humble pa amb tomaquèt for example. Simply known as “bread with tomato,” this popular side dish is made with a crusty bread known as pan de payés, rubbed with overripe tomato (and sometimes garlic), and doused in fragrant olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. Simple but delicious—this meal serves as the perfect accompaniment to jamón ibérico. Here are some of our other favorites:

Bomba

Invented in a small restaurant in the fishermen’s neighborhood of La Barceloneta, this popular tapa is rich in both history and flavor. Expect a small ball of mashed potato and meat, breaded, and deep-fried then topped with aioli and spicy tomato sauce.

Fideuà

One of the most popular Spanish dishes of all time, paella is omnipresent in Barcelona, but locals prefer a special variant made with noodles instead of rice, known as fideuà. This dish is cooked in the same iconic pan and garnished in the same way as a traditional paella, only it’s served with a slightly softer texture. Try it in any one of the many excellent restaurants found in La Barceloneta.

Esqueixada

This authentic Catalan salad is made with bacalao (dried and salted cod) and served with traditional romesco sauce, tomatoes, onions, and black olives. Fresh and zesty, it’s the perfect summer dish.

Calçots

A mix between a spring onion and a leek, these unusual alliums are native to Catalonia. Locals celebrate their arrival at the end of winter with lively street barbecues where these sweet onions are grilled together with various meats and paired with fresh romesco sauce. Make sure to also seek them out at the Boqueria, Barcelona’s oldest and most famous market.

Escalivada

This simple yet flavorful dish is made by grilling aubergines, red peppers, and onions over an open wood fire until charred, and then serving them on toasted bread with lashings of quality olive oil, garlic, and salt—with anchovies often added for a special kick.

A taste of the future

Present-day Catalan cuisine is defined not only by its rich heritage of merging different styles and influences, but also by its history of chefs and their restaurants that are celebrated around the world.

One such chef is Albert Raurich and his Michelin-starred restaurant, Dos Palillos. His Michelin-starred restaurant, Dos Palillos, (Carrer d'Elisabets, 9, 08001 Barcelona) is a testament of what Asian restaurants outside of Asia are capable of and builds on Barcelona’s growing enthusiasm for Catalan and Japanese fusion.

Raurich also paved the way for young talent such as Arnau Muñío, who’s currently wowing Barcelona with his tiny tapas restaurant Direkte Boqueria, located just behind the Boqueria market (Carrer de les Cabres, 13, 08001 Barcelona). One bar, eight diners, two sittings, and 16 set menus, this one-time market stall may look unassuming, but Muñío dishes up powerhouse Catalan-Asian fusion dishes that attract fusion afficionados far and wide.

And then there’s the highly successful chef trio of Oriol Castro, Mateu Casañas, and Eduard Xatruch, who all held senior positions at El Bulli. Now, they’re creating their own culinary magic at their two-Michelin-starred restaurant Disfrutar (Calle de Villarroel, 163, 08036 Barcelona)—currently sitting comfortably at number nine on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. The chefs’ playful tasting menus are pure performance, and while they no doubt owe a lot to El Bulli, their flawless execution and innovative presentation put them in a league of their own.

A room with a view: Barcelona

Tue, 15 Mar 2022 19:22:29 -0400

Wake up to panoramic views stretching from the shimmering Mediterranean to the crinkled peaks of the Serra de Collserola

Not all hotels are equal, and in Barcelona, a room with a view of the Catalan rooftops and spires are the most in-demand. From gleaming structures that pierce the skyline, to well-established art deco retreats, we check into four properties that’ll let you cast your eyes across the capital of Catalonia.

Contemporary cool and rooftop calm at Almanac Barcelona

Just steps from the ritzy boulevard of Passeig de Gràcia, this art deco-style boutique hotel is well connected to all of Barcelona’s cultural charms, including many of Gaudi’s modernist gems that dot the surrounding Eixample district. Designed by the award-winning Jaime Beriestain Studio, the suites that scale the hotel’s facade have clever, cantilevered glass box bay windows that allow you to view the bustling intersection below.

However, it’s up on the tiered roof terrace that the panoramas really unfold. The curved seating area of Azimuth Rooftop Bar offers an unobstructed view of the Edificio Generali building. Turn your gaze to the northeast and you’ll spot the incomplete but nonetheless iconic Sagrada Familia.

Insider tip: The rooftop pool is beautiful but small and can become a bit crowded later in the day. Early risers will be treated to not only to a quieter atmosphere, but a beautiful sunrise, as well.

Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes; almanachotels.com/barcelona

Seascapes and serenity at Hotel Arts

Frank Gehry’s famous fish sculpture, El Peix, announces your arrival at the seafront Hotel Arts. Just like the architect’s piece, pared back minimalism is at the heart of this establishment’s design, with an elegant mood board of earthy neutrals and restrained furnishings. Rising 44 stories above sea level, the simple interior lets the unparalleled vistas of Barcelona and its shoreline do the talking.

Guests enjoy city views with double-width windows, and the aptly named Barcelona Panoramic Room allows you to pinpoint all the major landmarks from your bed. Other highlights include a generous-sized swimming pool that sits next to the garden, complete with a children’s splash pool and quiet corners for relaxation. The spa further enhances the overall tranquility levels with its expansive treatment list and sea view sauna.

Insider tip: All five restaurants are excellent, but the two-Michelin-starred Enoteca Paco Pérez is the must-have reservation for serious foodies.

Enoteca Paco Pérez, +34 932 21 10 00

Carrer de la Marina; hotelartsbarcelona.com

Modern art and garden life at Hotel Miramar

Perched on the Montjuïc hillside to the south of the city center and residing just above Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera and Parc del Mirador del Poble-sec, the elevated position of this classic hotel provides a bird’s-eye view of the sweeping coastline and the grid of districts that meet the shoreline. Hotel Miramar was built for the 1929 Universal Exposition, but the original Wes Anderson-esque pink fronting was replaced by a modern structure at the start of the millennium, which introduced suites with large terraces that capture those views.

Just five minutes in a taxi from downtown, it’s the perfect base for anyone looking to tick off all the city’s sights and still be able to relax at the end of the day. Guests can spend a very happy afternoon sunbathing in the gardens, cooling off near the outdoor pool, and watching the sun set from the terrace.

Insider tip: For 360-degree views, take an early evening stroll through the Jardins del Mirador to the viewing platform of nearby Montjuïc Castle.

Plaça de Carlos Ibáñez, 3; hotelmiramarbarcelona.com/en

Mountain air and a fresh perspective from Gran Hotel La Florida

While most of Barcelona’s views are set against the backdrop of the tree-cloaked Serra de Collserola, which sweeps around the northwest of the city, the perspective is flipped at this retreat at the top of Mount Tibidabo. Looking back at the city from its high-altitude position, Barcelona is turned into a toy town. The bullet-shaped Agbar Tower, the fin-shaped W Hotel, and the ever-present spires of Sagrada Familia all appear deceivingly miniature from these heights. You can even spot the Pyrenees on the horizon on a clear day—and fortunately that’s quite common in Barcelona.

The hotel itself is still soaked in the old-world glamour that made it so famous in the roaring twenties. From the moment you step into the gilded lobby, you’re treated to a world of art nouveau decor, impeccable service, and evening cocktails on the panoramic terrace.

Insider tip: It’s a 20-minute taxi ride into town, but the hotel operates a complimentary shuttle service three times per day. Speak with reception for the daily running times and drop-off points.

Carretera de Vallvidrera al Tibidabo, 83; hotelfloridabarcelona.com/